Installation of a polycarbonate greenhouse: how to avoid assembly errors. How to properly build and equip a greenhouse. Disadvantages of installation errors in the construction of greenhouses

When we look at the polycarbonate greenhouses standing on neighboring plots, installing a greenhouse seems to us a simple and quick thing. And after all, today you don’t even need to procure any materials yourself, everything is on the market or in the store! What does the process actually look like, and is it as simple and fast as we would like?

It's not all cute and carefree, it turns out. Always things, products, and especially designs designed for the mass consumer and produced specifically for mass sales, are worse than piece units.

It's not about the materials, it's about the design. Since the product is designed for the widest possible application, there are no complex elements that should, for example, facilitate operation. So, when purchasing a ready-made arched polycarbonate greenhouse, at the same time you buy all its disadvantages in the kit.

No, of course, the benefits are undeniable! Installing a polycarbonate greenhouse will greatly facilitate your gardening life.

Among the advantages can be listed (for all available options):

• The greenhouse will not break like glass (see);
• Much stronger than film models;
• Holds heat well inside
• The material can always easily take the necessary forms;
• Polycarbonate is perfectly cut with a simple knife.

As for the shortcomings, no one will tell you about them, because it is not customary to scare away the consumer. And along with the purchased "factory" polycarbonate greenhouse, you will buy all its negative qualities (see).

And then you will not get rid of them, even following the installation instructions exactly.

• Installation will not be as fast as advertised. Or in a tutorial video. Before you properly install the polycarbonate greenhouse, you will have to make a foundation on the spot (see), and then, if necessary, also a plinth (preferably if the foundation is self-leveling and without formwork). A plinth is needed if you raise the level of soil inside the greenhouse, its fertile layer. To put it more precisely and simply, to import more land;
• After the delivery of the kit (greenhouse), you will have to assemble its lower part, carefully measure all the indicators, and, according to the ready-made data, arrange the foundation. Which, by the way, will then stand for more than one day just like that. No, it can dry in the open sun in a day, but it will not gain its nominal strength, but rather crack. That is, upon delivery of our greenhouse, we pour the foundation and wait a couple of weeks. After all, you don’t know what size structure you will buy tomorrow at the market?

• Minus number two: the typical form of greenhouses popularized by the people is arched. But this is not due to the fact that such a design is optimal. And because the installation of polycarbonate on the greenhouse in this case is much easier, in this case it is simply more convenient for manufacturers to run the conveyor. And this is determined by the "standard" dimensions of polycarbonate sheets. With a normal width of 2.1 meters, a standard sheet has a length of 12 meters, but, of course, no one will work with such “sheets”. Therefore, standard sheets are cut in half, and the design is “sharpened” under 6 meters. In such polycarbonate greenhouses, even a typical installation instruction is given, one for all occasions;
• The third drawback is that the standard design does not allow to increase the height of the ceiling. A standard sheet will have a radius of curvature of exactly 1.9 meters, and a width of 3.8 meters, respectively. You will draw a cap on the roof. In some designs, however, you can "play" with the dimensions, if you take the smaller one, that is, 2.1 meters, as the main side of the polycarbonate sheet. Accordingly, you can make the ceiling a little larger, but you will have to lay four sheets across so that the total length of the roof is 8.4 meters. And these are additional fasteners, joints, especially transverse ones, where water and condensate will flow;
• The fourth, somewhat paradoxical drawback, is precisely the arched structure. It is slightly superior in complexity to the straight-line one in the manufacture of the frame, when it comes to metal profiles or pipes, and not plastic. It is easier to make plastic, but the strength is lame;
• For the manufacture of frame structures, it is necessary to use slipways, equipment or pipe benders, and anyway, it is quite difficult to get arcs of the same size. And if you make each arc piece by piece, then absolutely ...

Conclusion! Ready-made designs of polycarbonate greenhouses are quite durable, beautiful, warm and overly expensive. Much more expensive than a self-assembled building. And they are not always as practical as we would like, in comparison with their own construction according to their own project. Mass projects do not even have adaptation to a specific area or microclimate of the zone, and cannot be.

But you, of course, have already purchased such products if you want to know how to install a polycarbonate greenhouse. Therefore, we go further for you personally.

Installation of a finished polycarbonate greenhouse

Preparation

This includes work on clearing the site, the device (pouring) of the foundation and the construction of the basement.

• The site where the building will be located must be cleared not only of vegetation and debris, but also a small top layer of soil must be removed. Anyway, then you will add the earth, and so - along with the fertile layer, you will also remove the seeds of future weeds. And work becomes much more convenient.

The site is cleared more than is required for the installation of the structure, about one and a half meters on each side around the entire perimeter must also be cleaned. This will be required when storing materials and tools.

• We dig a trench under the foundation. Since this is not a house or a barn, the trench is enough for a depth of 20-25 cm, even taking into account the sand cushion for the device. But as same, all according to the rules! We check the evenness and dimension of the sides of the open trench again by pulling two ropes diagonally. In the end, they should be equal in length, then you have the correct rectangle;
• We make a pillow out of sand, you can not sift the sand, not that case. And ramming such a pillow does not make much sense, you can only spill it with water to compact it. Layer - 5 cm, no more;
• Lay a layer of waterproofing along the walls of the trench;
• Bookmark a buta or broken brick, but don’t be too zealous, since the depth of occurrence is small. Only corners can be reinforced, along the entire length there is no need, but there is also no prohibition;
• Fill the trench with rubble and reinforcement with a liquid solution of cement and sand. The proportions are normal, 1:3, with a brand of Portland cement grade M 500 and higher;
• After setting the calculated tensile strength of the foundation (this is about two weeks, you can - one and a half), waterproof the foundation along the top bed. You can put a red brick base on it.

Frame installation

A polycarbonate greenhouse with the installation of a finished frame must be supplied with instructions, where all actions must be described in detail. Each version of finished structures from different manufacturers may differ in materials and the way they are attached to each other. Therefore, it makes no sense to give specific descriptions of your step-by-step work.

• Since a greenhouse is a kind of room in which there will definitely be high humidity, all elements must be protected from moisture. If these are metal parts, they are protected at the factory, but it does not happen that there are no sawn off or cut off places where the protection is removed. At the joints and at the joints, it is desirable to paint over the metal profile or cover it with some other corrosion protection means;
• Wooden parts are also treated with antiseptics and covered with paints or varnishes in places where they are sawn. It is understood that the blanks for the frame, made of wood, are also protected from moisture, mold, and so on even at the factory along the entire length;
• When installing the frame on the plinth, it is advisable to attach it to the base in several places. This can be done by drilling a through hole directly through the base elements with a long drill. You can also fix the structure on wooden inserts pre-arranged in the plinth, located approximately 1.5-2 meters apart.

Covering the frame with polycarbonate

There are several options for how to properly install polycarbonate on a greenhouse. Surely, in the finished design, the developers provided for one of them, and supplied the kit with consumables, that is, fasteners. These are either self-tapping screws (screws, bolts) with thermal washers, or a special profile, which can be metal (see) or polycarbonate.

Fasteners with thermal washers

Fasteners with thermal washers require pre-drilling holes in polycarbonate sheets. Their diameter should usually be slightly larger than the diameter of the self-tapping screw, the pressing density and tightness of the attachment point is ensured by a special seal in the form of a washer.

The self-tapping screw is screwed in as usual, its head is closed with a cap provided in the fastener design to protect the metal from moisture. In this case, butyl rubber or rubber gaskets must be laid on the frame to ensure both tightness from the inside and tightness.

With this fastening, the connecting seams remain open from the outside, tightness is ensured only from the inside. Water seeps into the seams. In addition, at the ends it is necessary to close the ducts inside the polycarbonate sheets so that water does not flow there either.

The upper ends are tightly closed with construction tape or any other similar method, and the lower ends must be perforated for condensate drainage. Otherwise, the sheets will fog up and lose their transparency.

In the case of using a profile, everything is much more pleasant. The H-shape provides a tight entry of the ends of the polycarbonate inside, thereby immediately providing both density and tightness. The upper and lower ends of the material are also closed with an end profile, and all problems with the protection of the ducts are solved.

Here we figured out how to properly install polycarbonate on the greenhouse. The rest remains!

doors

Everything is also provided by the manufacturer, so there is no need to independently select materials and measure them. It remains for you to assemble the frame of the canvas and hang polycarbonate on it, and then mount the door on the structure. It is advisable to sew the sheets to the frame "on the ground" while the door is not yet hung.

How you will ensure the density of closing the door is the choice of the owner, so to speak. If seals are provided in the finished design, then everything is fine initially. But it is not always so rosy, we recall that the greenhouse is mass-produced.

Therefore, it would be nice to provide for the installation of a rubber sheet seal with a thickness of no more than 2 mm. For these purposes, a bicycle chamber cut along is perfect.

There is no need to go to the store to buy a branded greenhouse model, especially if you know how to assemble a polycarbonate greenhouse yourself.

Within 15-20 years, it will serve you without repair, which means that additional costs will not be required.

Foundation

All large greenhouses are mounted on columnar foundations. Only the outer sides of the greenhouse are made of strip foundations. The depth of soil freezing for a given area should be taken into account.

This information can be obtained from:

• Internet
• Construction organizations
• City, district, regional departments of architecture
• Reference technical literature

In order to fill the columnar foundation, it is necessary to make a formwork from boards 25 mm thick. The height of the columnar foundation should be equal to the depth of soil freezing plus 250-300 mm. The minimum section of the foundation column is 150*150 mm. It is necessary to insert a reinforcing bar of at least 8 mm into each extreme foundation column, which should protrude from the concrete by 150-200 mm.

Concrete for foundation posts must be at least M 200 grade. Each post must be installed on a solid foundation. Before the developer, the question may arise: How to align all the foundation columns under one level? When installing posts in the ground, you should not worry if one post is higher and the other is lower. After installing the columns and checking the geometric dimensions, they are cut to the level using the “Bulgarian with a diamond wheel”.

• In order not to fill the foundation columns, you can buy ready-made concrete pillars for fences
• Columns can be round

Breakdown of foundation axes

Before building the foundation, it is necessary to make a breakdown of its axes on the ground. For small greenhouses, a tape measure is enough. If the greenhouse is large, it is impossible to install polycarbonate greenhouses without a theodolite. In order to make the breakdown correctly, it is necessary to make a breakdown of the axes of the greenhouse and install a cast-off on the ground:

Designations in the figure:

1. Saw to pass the central axis.
2. Auxiliary axes for marking foundation edges
3. Corner shatter
4. Stroke to designate the central axis

Pegs 7,8,9,10,11,12 to mark the corners and extreme points of the greenhouse.

Necessary materials:

• Roulette
• Wooden pegs
• Nails
• Large stakes
• Axe
• Synthetic rope (wire)
• plumb line

First you need to make a rectangle with the required dimensions. We drive nails into the pegs where the axes of the greenhouse will pass. After the axes of the greenhouse are broken on the ground, they must be taken out of the construction site.

To do this, a cast-off of wooden poles and boards are installed outside the site. The cast-off should be strong and not stagger from the wind. All axes of the greenhouse will be placed on it. This is done so that at any time you can check the correct installation of the foundation columns and the installation of the greenhouse frame.

Tips: There can be as many cast-offs as there are main and auxiliary axes in the greenhouse

Foundation check

The horizontality of the foundation can be checked:

• Leveling
• Theodolite
• water level

Where can you get these tools? The level and theodolite can be borrowed from specialized construction organizations. The water level is used by folk craftsmen. It consists of a rubber hose and two glass tubes.

The geometric dimensions are checked with a tape measure.

A right angle is a rectangle with dimensions:

• Legs 3 meters and 4 meters
• Hypotenuse 5 meters

In a rectangle with such dimensions, the angle is 90 degrees.

• The water level can be made by yourself from a watering hose and two glass tubes or syringes.

foundation concrete

The industry produces cement in bags of 50 kilograms of various grades.

For example, a column with a section of 150 * 150 mm and a height of 1200 mm will have a volume of: 0.15 * 0.15 * 1.2 = 0.027 m3. That is, for 10 columns with a height of 1.2 and a section of 150 * 150 mm, 0.27 m3 of concrete M 200 is needed.

There are special tables that discuss various options for preparing concrete, depending on the brand of cement, water-cement ratio and various aggregates of crushed stone and sand.

• The foundation of a small greenhouse must be mounted to the nearest millimeter and strictly horizontal.
• If the greenhouse is large, then each column must be set in accordance with the project. The height of the columns regulate the slopes for water runoff.
• Sometimes cement manufacturers print tables on bags for the preparation of various grades of concrete.

Greenhouse Options

When building polycarbonate greenhouses, there can be several options for their designs:

• Double-sided greenhouses.
• Single slope greenhouses.

Installation of arched structures

Arched polycarbonate greenhouses have found the widest application among amateur gardeners. Polycarbonate sheets, in addition to their good thermal performance, are also durable and flexible.

Thanks to this, the industry began mass production of arched greenhouses (, and many others). Arched greenhouses are the most technologically advanced of all, although the arched design has some drawbacks. But such a design still has more advantages.

• Regardless of the manufacturer's guarantees, it is necessary to install additional braces
• Before starting assembly, it is better to watch the installation video for clarity.

Assembling an arched greenhouse

1. In order not to make mistakes, the instructions for assembling a polycarbonate greenhouse should be the guiding and guiding force of vegetable growers.
2. On the foundation posts, a strapping of wooden beams 100 * 100 mm is mounted. The bars are treated with antiseptic materials against decay.
3. In the arches of industrial production made of square metal pipes, holes are drilled for attaching polycarbonate. All holes must be drilled according to the template. The template is made from a metal strip. If the arches are made of aluminum or galvanized metal profile up to 1 mm thick, no drilling is required. Fastening can be done on screws - self-tapping screws.
4. On a wooden or other (metal) strapping of the foundation columns, the points of attachment of the arcs are marked.
5. After checking all dimensions, assembly can begin in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.
6. The first arc must be strengthened on the braces so that it does not stagger from side to side.
7. All arcs are sequentially mounted from the first to the last arc.
8. The frame of the greenhouse is reinforced with metal braces and connected with metal profiles in accordance with the drawings.
9. After checking all the dimensions, proceed to the installation of polycarbonate sheets.

Greenhouse details

The photo shows how to seal polycarbonate sheets. A sealing tape should be installed at the top of the sheet, and a perforated tape for draining condensate should be installed at the bottom.

After gluing the sealing and perforated tape, it must be fixed with a U-shaped end profile. It should be in the kit.

This profile is used to join two adjacent polycarbonate sheets. He is inseparable. In this case, polycarbonate sheets and profiles are mounted sequentially one after the other.

In this case, the installation of polycarbonate on the greenhouse can be started by installing the lower part of the connecting profile, and then, by installing the polycarbonate sheets, “snap the top”. This type of connection is more convenient to use.

Wall profile FP can be used in the construction of shed greenhouses.

The corner profile is used to connect the extreme corner sheets. The connection is sealed due to the elasticity of polycarbonate.

The design feature of the profile is such that it is designed for large greenhouses. Polycarbonate sheets are inserted on both sides.

Detachable connecting profile

In this version of the connecting profile, a ridge is provided, consisting of two parts. Having attached the lower profile, rubber seals, polycarbonate sheets are installed in it and the upper part of the profile is inserted into it. With some effort, the upper part of the skate “snaps into place”.

Good advice :

• For the winter, all the arcs in the greenhouse made of polycarbonate sheets should be supported with wooden supports with braces, resting them against recesses in the ground to avoid the collapse of the greenhouse from snow
• All polycarbonate sheets must enter joints with a gap of at least 5mm
• All holes in polycarbonate sheets must be larger than self-tapping screws or screws by 2mm
• All joints of polycarbonate sheets with connecting elements should be sealed with silicone

And if you do not listen to good advice, then you can face the fall of the greenhouse. It can be seen that this flimsy structure is not designed for harsh and snowy winters. Not even a hint of braces.

Therefore, when buying a greenhouse, you should always take an interest in its design. If there are no braces, you can make them yourself using a metal profile and an electric drill. The costs are small, and unpleasant surprises can be avoided.

Installation of double-slope greenhouses

The construction of foundations for gable greenhouses is no different from the construction of foundations for arched greenhouses.

When arranging gable greenhouses and designing them, the recommended roof slope angles should be taken into account. Tilt angle may vary 10° to 30°.

The higher the angle of inclination of the roof, the less snow load, but the consumption of materials is greater. The main thing during installation is the correct and accurate breakdown of the greenhouse frame on the foundation. The frame can be fixed in different ways. Self-tapping screws to a wooden strapping or dowels to a concrete foundation.

Details of double-slope greenhouses and their connections

The design features of the frame of a double-slope greenhouse are such that the corner connection is rather rigid and does not allow adjusting the width of the greenhouse by pushing the structure on the foundation without damaging it. Therefore, the accuracy of the breakdown of the foundation plays a major role here.

Greenhouse manufacturers have tried to unify its details. Installation of a polycarbonate greenhouse from a metal profile is not difficult.

The connection of two rafters together with a self-tapping ridge forms a strong knot.

To increase the strength of the greenhouse structure, braces are used. If there are no such braces in the proposed greenhouse design, they should be made independently.

The manufacturer used a metal profile in the form of a square pipe for the greenhouse frame. The profile can be not only in the form of a square, but also a rectangle.

If everything is done in accordance with the recommendations of greenhouse manufacturers, and even measures are taken to strengthen the structure, such a greenhouse will last a long time. In the photo, you can see the corners of the greenhouse reinforced with braces. Braces should strengthen not only the walls of the greenhouse, but also the roof.

Installation of shed greenhouses

The installation of single-slope greenhouses differs from the installation of gable ones in that one of the sides of the greenhouse is adjacent to a building or some kind of structure. In fact, a single-sided greenhouse is half of a double-sided greenhouse.

When installing, pay attention to the connection to the wall. The connection must be sealed. Can be sealed with polyurethane foam.

Helpful Hints:

• For unification, all repeating connections must be made according to the template
• The distances between the rafters must be a multiple of the width of the polycarbonate sheet. These dimensions are: 2100mm, 1050mm, 700mm
• For a large greenhouse, it is desirable to use an aluminum connecting profile
• For fixing polycarbonate, it is necessary to use special washers with gaskets
• The bending radius of the sheets is specified in the manufacturer's recommendations
• Polycarbonate is drilled with conventional metal drills

The quality of the foundation is the basis of the stability and durability of the house. Its installation includes several sequential processes:

• excavation;
• ground preparation;
• installation of foundation blocks (for a prefabricated foundation);
• installation of formwork and reinforcement;
• preparation and pouring of concrete (for a monolithic foundation).

And a lot depends on the qualifications of the performers. It is necessary to have sufficient knowledge so as not to make significant mistakes, which are then difficult or even impossible to correct. There can be many mistakes, here are just a few:

There is no concrete layer between the reinforcement and the soil (the so-called protective layer)

Why is it so necessary? Concrete will not penetrate under the base of the frame, the metal will be in contact with the ground, moistened, corroded. The bearing capacity of the foundation will decrease, cracks, distortions of the foundation and, as a result, cracks in the building are possible. It is no longer possible to fix this.

The foundation frame (and any other reinforced concrete structure) must be protected from all sides by concrete. Therefore, it must be installed at a height of 3-5 cm above the base (also the frame should not touch the formwork). You can purchase special supports (the so-called "stools"), which are used in professional construction. It is possible to substitute rings from a polypropylene pipe under the frame and be sure to vibrate with a vibrator so that the concrete fills all the hard-to-reach places.

The foundation was poured in layers over several days.

The top layer of concrete hardens, does not bond well with the new one, a fragile crumbling area is formed at the seam, as a result, the solidity of the structure is broken, cracks, water penetration, and a decrease in the bearing capacity of the foundation are possible.

You can try to seal the cracks that appeared during drying to the full depth with a cement-sand mortar with the addition of glue (cracks that have appeared in the foundation for any reason must always be repaired).

Professionals believe that pouring the foundation in a few days is unacceptable. Therefore, it is important to prepare for work in such a way that it goes quickly. There should be enough workers in the brigade, it is necessary to agree in advance on the delivery of concrete. When using a concrete mixer, it is placed closer to the place of pouring. So that the work is not interrupted by rain, and the trenches are not filled with water, you should study the weather forecast and choose the right day.

If circumstances force the foundation to be poured for several days, then the seam should not pass through the reinforcement. If the work is interrupted for more than 12 hours, it can be resumed only after the concrete has hardened (after 5-7 days, depending on the weather).

Concreting can be stopped only in the place where there will be no significant tensile or compressive forces in the structure and the working seam will not disturb the joint operation of the entire structure. The places of possible seams are indicated in the project. Before concreting the structure, the probability of formation of working seams due to possible interruptions in work is clarified.

Often they make a mistake when arranging working seams, when they interrupt the concreting in the most dangerous place for the structure, in the middle, or make a seam in a reinforced concrete slab not parallel to its bearing plane. The error associated with the liquefaction of concrete with water leads to the fact that, due to its fluidity, it is impossible to form a working seam with a vertical cut, so the concrete in some places turns out to be laid in several layers. This design is not able to withstand the design load.

There is an opinion that the application of a liquid cement mortar to the junction with a layer of concrete contributes to the formation of a strong seam. Cement milk does not have the ability to stick together and peels off the surface, especially if it is dry.

The strip foundation is reinforced with columns

One of the main requirements for the foundation is uniformity. Therefore, a gross mistake is the construction of a foundation reinforced with columns, which has been widespread in recent times. At best, the posts under the tape do not work, at worst, they keep some points of the tape from moving during freezing and heaving of the soil, which leads to the destruction of the foundation.

The foundation can be either , or . Such a combination, like a crossbar on poles, is possible only on the condition that the crossbar tape is located above the ground and perceives only the weight of the house.

Errors in the construction of the foundation of rubble concrete

Foundations for individual construction are also erected from a more economical material - rubble concrete. 30-40% of its volume is occupied by large stones or pieces of concrete, which saves fresh concrete mix.

When building a foundation made of rubble concrete, it is easy to make mistakes that will lead to fatal defects. One of the most common causes of foundation defects is the use of loose, slate-like, layered, hygroscopic stone unsuitable for this purpose.

When erecting a rubble concrete foundation, they make a mistake by laying rubble concrete using the technology of building foundation walls. As a result, such a foundation gives cracks and faults, stones are squeezed out to the sides. The foundation settles, collapses, and its repair is difficult.

Concrete masonry is performed as follows. The stones are laid in one layer in an open trench without following a special order, then the gaps are filled with concrete mixture. After that, the next layer of stones is laid and again poured with concrete.

In a properly made rubble concrete foundation, the stones do not touch each other, the gaps between them do not exceed 5 cm, and the stones seem to “float” in the concrete. The lower and upper layers of concrete have a thickness of at least 15 cm, and if this thickness is not maintained, then the stones can push through the base.

When constructing the formwork, the mass of compacted concrete was not taken into account

The formwork must retain its shape under the action of vibrating concrete. Concrete exerts significant pressure on the lower and side surfaces of the formwork, which must be taken into account when constructing it. Concrete workers have a saying: "The formwork is never too strong." Therefore, it will never be superfluous to additionally strengthen the formwork with stops, ties, spacers, in order to exclude possible movements during concreting.

After stripping large monolithic reinforced concrete beams, their deflection is sometimes detected, which can reach 4–5 cm. In most cases, deflection occurs due to the fact that under the action of the mass of concrete during laying, the wooden formwork structures under the beam elastically bend and the concrete structure is finally fixed in such a position. This can be avoided by slightly raising the formwork at the place of the expected greatest deflection so that during concreting it straightens under the action of concrete.

After the formwork is installed, it is cleaned of dust and dirt, and then moistened, because dry wood absorbs some of the water needed for setting from concrete, which can lead to a decrease in the strength of concrete. Together with the absorbed water, cement particles are introduced into the wood, the boards stick to the concrete, and during disassembly, either the formwork is destroyed or the edges of the structure break off. In this design, moisture penetrates the reinforcement more easily.

Insufficiently compacted concrete mix

Manual compaction of concrete is possible only in the construction of secondary, mostly non-reinforcing structures with small volumes of concrete work.

A manual rammer is a tool with a wooden handle and a flat platform below, weighing 10–20 kg. The rammer is freely lowered onto concrete from a height of about 25 cm so that the next blow covers about half of the track from the previous one. Compaction must be continued until it becomes clear that the concrete has compacted and cement mortar has not appeared on its surface. In this way, a layer 10–20 cm thick can be satisfactorily compacted. A mistake is made when trying to compact a concrete layer 30–40 cm thick.

Medium plasticity concrete mix is ​​not suitable for compaction due to its elasticity. Such a mixture with a thickness of no more than 20–30 cm should be compacted by bayoneting with a metal rod weighing 2–4 kg, which evenly “pierces” the concrete.

Concrete must not be over-diluted with water. The most common mistake when mixing concrete by hand is adding water without mixing the dry mix. In this case, it is impossible to ensure the homogeneity of the mixture. When adding water to the concrete mixture, do not pour water from a bucket, because water flows wash away the cement. Water is added from a watering can with a spray nozzle.

The best compaction is achieved using vibrators. But here, too, there are pitfalls.

The most common mistake when using a submersible vibrator is to contact and press it against the reinforcing cage to transmit vibration to the deep layers, since vibrations are not transmitted through the frequent mesh of the reinforcement to the lower layers. Under the influence of vibration, a weak layer is formed around the reinforcement bars, which impairs the joint work of concrete and reinforcement. The same low-strength concrete is also obtained when the vibrator is removed from the compacted mixture, leaving holes. Although the holes close to this area are filled when the vibrator is immersed, a uniform compaction cannot be obtained because the concrete does not reach the design strength.

Foundation slab not insulated

The plate freezes, the floor cools, condensation appears on its surface, the floor covering warps, peels off. Over time, the foundation slab may also collapse.

You can fix it like this. Dig out the foundation slab along the perimeter to the entire depth of its laying, expand the trench by 50 cm from the walls. From the base of the slab to the height of the base (50 cm) and at the bottom of the trench, lay a moisture-resistant heat-insulating material (extruded polystyrene foam), fill in the soil, make a blind area. Simple foam is one of the materials that deteriorate very quickly and cease to fulfill their intended purpose. Errors in the construction of this type can be the first link in a consistent chain of negative phenomena. The main factor in choosing a heater for the base should be its durability.

How to do right now? The foundation slab, which is the floor of the first floor, must be insulated. This can be done in various ways. In addition to the mandatory insulation around the perimeter of the basement, it will not be superfluous to isolate the plate plane under the whole house and the blind area. In this case, expanded clay or foam sheets of at least 0.4-0.7 m wide can be used. Do not forget that much more heat escapes through the corners than through flat surfaces, so increase the layer of insulation in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe corners, cover the insulation with sand again from above.

Insulation of the foundation along the perimeter not only prevents the soil from freezing, but also prevents heaving soils from being pushed out of the foundation and reduces heat loss through the basement walls. You can use this technology for basement insulation, or for converting a cold basement into a heated room. To do this, it is not necessary to tear off the soil, it is enough to lay the thermal insulation material in the manner indicated above and you will protect the basement from heat loss, frost heaving and unnecessary costs.

Waterproofing not laid between the basement and the foundation, the basement and the floor of the first floor

The microclimate in the house, the durability of structures, and the thermal insulation of walls depend on waterproofing. Moisture from the soil seeps into the foundation, rises into the basement, then into the walls. Freezing moisture leads to the formation of cracks in the foundation and basement. It is recommended to insulate the walls and base of the foundation even when the groundwater level is low, as the groundwater has been rising in recent decades. But the most important place for laying waterproofing is in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe basement of the house, which is threatened by moisture from both groundwater and surface water. Here, an obstacle should be placed to the spread of moisture in the walls and ceilings of the house.

It is difficult to eliminate an error not noticed in time. It is possible to use injection waterproofing.

Horizontal waterproofing is required not only between the basement and the wall, but also at the level of the blind area between the foundation and the basement. As a waterproofing, it is recommended to use materials such as roofing material and glass isol. This is especially important when the floor of the first floor is located on the ground. In this case, the waterproofing of the ceiling must form a single contour with the waterproofing between the base and the wall.

Under the wooden walls, you can put gaskets, which are boards wrapped in roofing material. Rotten gaskets are easier to replace than to repair the bottom trim.

It is worth considering the factor that melt water can rise to a level of 25 cm. When constructing a building, when the basement is much lower than this mark, destruction of the entire structure is possible. In order to prevent moisture from penetrating into the interior of the room, it is imperative to give preference to the high location of the base.

Dampness in the house can cause much more serious problems than the complete destruction of the house. Among the negative consequences include a variety of lung diseases. Saving on decent waterproofing is the first step to long-term treatment.

Walls

Walls perform several functions: enclosing, noise and heat insulating, bearing the weight of ceilings and roofs. The multifunctionality of the walls leads to the complication of the process of their construction using multilayer structures. On the other hand, new materials have appeared that are both warm and durable - expanded clay concrete blocks and autoclaved aerated concrete. Due to the lack of experience and knowledge, errors often occur when working with these materials.

One of the main sources of dampness in the house is the moisture generated inside the premises during washing, washing, cooking, etc. The presence of vapor barrier and ventilation for frame houses is a prerequisite. It is desirable to protect other types of walls with vapor barrier material from the inside of the room. The outer walls of the house must be finished with windproof materials that allow moisture to escape from the walls to the outside. When used as an exterior siding, plastic sheets must be provided with wall ventilation.

Aerated concrete wall insulated with polystyrene foam

In this case, the heat-shielding qualities of the wall will not increase, but will actually decrease. The wall will get wet.

If the wall is already insulated, the insulation must be removed. If the wall thickness is insufficient (for example, 30 cm), it should be insulated with a vapor-permeable material.

It is best to initially apply aerated concrete with sufficient heat-shielding qualities and finish the wall with vapor-permeable plaster. A single-layer wall made of aerated concrete with a bulk density of 400 kg/m³ and a thickness of 375 mm is self-sufficient in terms of thermal protection, its heat transfer resistance is 3.3 m²/W x °C, which is significantly higher than the standard (2.8 m²/W x °C) . According to calculations, insulation with expanded polystyrene (5 cm) will improve the heat-shielding qualities of the wall by another 25%. But in reality, there will be no increase: vapor-tight thermal insulation will provoke the accumulation of moisture in the outer part of aerated concrete, the thermal conductivity of the wall will increase and there will be no savings on heating. The durability of the walls will also decrease. The feasibility of additional insulation of aerated concrete with high heat-shielding qualities and the thickness of the insulation layer must be checked by calculation.

A newly built aerated concrete house was plastered just before the start of the heating season

To reduce the consequences, you should not turn on the heating in the house, because. plaster will fall off along with pieces of aerated concrete. If it is necessary to switch on, the room should be strongly ventilated.

Between the end of the laying of the wall and its finishing, a pause should be made from several weeks to several months (depending on the time of year and weather). Technological moisture must evaporate from aerated concrete, which is contained in the blocks after leaving the plant and collected during the construction period from the atmosphere and solution. Plaster (especially cement-sand) creates a layer with relatively low vapor permeability on the masonry surface. When the heating is turned on, moisture from the thickness of aerated concrete rushes towards the street, accumulates at the border with plaster, freezes and destroys the structure.

In order to save money, a brick was added to the laying of ceramic blocks

In the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe joints of materials, cold bridges form, parts of the wall will be moistened and frozen.

Do not use brick when laying ceramic blocks. Apply halves of ceramic blocks or parts of blocks of the desired size (ceramic blocks are easy to cut). When bricks and ceramic blocks are combined in the wall, the thermal uniformity of the wall is disturbed, and an unfavorable humidity regime develops in the structure.

If, nevertheless, due to ignorance, a brick was inserted, the brick areas should be insulated with a layer of mineral wool.

Errors when laying brick walls

The mistake when laying walls is that the seams between the bricks are poorly filled if too liquid mortar flows out of them, or vice versa - too hard mortar does not spread over the surface of the brick.

This is rarely done anywhere, but it is advisable in hot weather when using a mortar with the addition of cement, soak the brick before laying the walls for 8-10 minutes. Otherwise, the brick absorbs water, the cement in the mortar is not able to set and the wall loses its design strength.

Often, at the end of the working day, masons coat the last row of bricks with mortar. A thin layer of unprotected mortar quickly dries, cracks and peels off the wall, and the next day fresh mortar and a row of bricks are laid on this weakened layer. All this reduces the strength of the wall.

Walls and columns left unloaded for the winter are in a particularly dangerous position. The sun at the end of winter and the beginning of spring warms quite strongly, but heats them mainly from one side; as a result of the structure, movements, warping, and deviations from the vertical are experienced. Therefore, after bringing the walls to the top, floor slabs should be laid as a load.

For the winter, the walls must be closed from exposure to atmospheric precipitation from above. Snow melting in the spring, falling into the cracks of the masonry from above, during its subsequent freezing destroys the masonry.

Overlappings

Prefabricated floor slabs were not tied together with reinforcement

Movements of plates and walls are possible, threatening the stability of the house. Especially dangerous in seismic conditions. If the slabs are already concreted, then the error cannot be corrected.

Floor slabs must be rigidly connected to each other and fixed in the walls. Then they form a hard disk and the load on a separate plate is redistributed to the entire floor. To do this, after laying, special reinforcing outlets of each of the slabs are connected to the outlet of the adjacent slab by twisting or a long weld. The seams between the slabs are concreted, sometimes with reinforcement laid in them. Floor slabs resting on the inner wall are also connected along the short side.

The prefabricated floor slab was taken out of the wall of the house as a cantilevered balcony slab

The balcony should be supported on columns or a wall, the slab should be insulated from the side of sub-zero temperatures (for example, make a warm room under the balcony). Otherwise, geometric violations of the evenness of the floor in the room, the collapse of the balcony are possible. An uninsulated balcony slab will become a cold bridge.

For floors inside the house and balcony consoles, different slabs should be used, since they work in different conditions and their reinforcement is fundamentally different (the floor slab is supported on the walls along two short sides and reinforced from below, the balcony slab is pinched in the wall on one side and reinforced from above).

Errors when installing wooden floors

Wooden floors are often arranged in small individual houses. Their advantage is the speed of assembly, low dead weight; disadvantages include fire hazard and susceptibility to fungal diseases. Fungal diseases are not very upsetting if the material is carefully treated with appropriate antiseptics, which are currently in great abundance, before the overlapping device.

The wooden floor must not touch the chimney. The rules prescribe to leave a free gap between the ceiling and the surface of the pipe.

If the roof is combined with a ceiling that is plastered from below, then cracks soon appear on this surface. The reason is that under the pressure of the wind, the wooden roof trusses begin to move, which fragile plaster cannot perceive. It is advisable to veneer such ceilings only with materials that have sufficient elasticity.

When building attic space, pine lumber is used for windows and facade cladding. The most common mistake when connecting boards into a tongue and groove is that they are placed with the groove up, guided only by the convenience of assembly. In this position, precipitation easily penetrates through the seams between the boards, creating constant moisture in the joint and promoting the growth of fungi.

Roof and roof

The roof must withstand external loads - wind, snow to protect the interior from precipitation. In this case, the roof should exert only vertical pressure on the walls. When erecting a truss system, it is necessary to ensure its rigidity, for which puffs and crossbars are used. Strong fastening to the Mauerlat allows you to withstand wind loads. When constructing an attic, it is important to achieve a closed insulation loop for all structures that enclose the room. The development of roof structures is one of the most important tasks of the designer.

Lack of puffs in the design of the hanging truss system

When forming the truss system, the lack of puffs and crossbars necessary for rigidity can lead to uneven loads on the walls. The structure will be unstable, the roof will create a "thrust" on the walls, it will begin to "disperse". As a result, partial destruction of the building structure.

If the attic is unused, then it is necessary to connect the rafters of opposite sides of the roof in pairs with beams - puffs located as low as possible, and in the attic room - directly above the ceiling.

The hanging truss system must necessarily have puffs and be a rigid figure in cross section. triangle, since the planes of the roof slopes tend to disperse under the action of their own weight. The puff (crossbar) located above the attic floor beam works more reliably. When combining the tightening with the ceiling (reinforced concrete or wooden beams), the ceiling must be a solid structure from one outer wall to another. Therefore, when beams or slabs are supported on an intermediate inner wall (as happens in most houses), the floors in the support node should be rigidly connected to each other. Laminated rafters create a smaller thrust, but puffs are also desirable for them.

The connection of rafters with puffs will be fragile if they are not fastened with a bracket or a strip of steel strip. At this point, they are connected to each other on a small horizontal platform and the friction force is not able to withstand a more significant horizontal force. In this case, the rafter leg may move, and the roof plane may bend. At the junction of the puff with the rafter leg and the Mauerlat, wooden linings are placed or a simple cut is arranged in order to exclude lateral movements.

Problems in the construction of the roof, combined with the ceiling

The biggest problem in carpentry is the erection of a roof combined with a ceiling. Careful attention should be paid to the decision to transfer the thrust from the inclined forces arising in the roof structures to the load-bearing floor. In most cases, the rafters are based on a Mauerlat beam, which is fixed with anchor bolts “tightly” to the reinforced concrete stiffening belt. If it is not anchored, then under the action of inclined forces, the Mauerlat beam overturns, the stability of the roof is violated and it begins to slide.

Fastening is sometimes ineffective due to the fact that the bolts are incorrectly placed in the reinforced concrete stiffening belt or the holes for them are incorrectly made in the beam. In such cases, the nuts are screwed onto the bolts with overtightening, the assembly becomes unreliable and quickly collapses.

The roofs, combined with the ceilings, in most houses have such a width that the floor beams rest not only on the outer, but also on the middle load-bearing wall. The design will work in accordance with the project only if the floor beams are joined together by a reinforced concrete stiffening belt along the intermediate load-bearing wall. Often this is neglected, the ceiling does not fulfill its functions and the roof moves apart.

The construction of roof truss structures combined with the ceiling, where the role of the bearing capacity of the attic floor is not taken into account, is very dangerous. It happens that they try to replace the tightening with precast concrete floor beams, which are designed only for bending. Prefabricated reinforced concrete beams are used as puffs if their ends are rigidly fixed in the reinforced concrete stiffening belt of the floor, and the axis exactly coincides with the direction of the acting forces. In the direction perpendicular to the beams, there is no such strong connection between them and the flooring elements that would ensure the absorption of loads.

One of the possible errors in the solution of the roof is that the roof structure, combined with the attic floor, provides for loading not only the stiffening belt, but also through the intermediate racks of the floor itself. These vertical posts transmit the load acting on the intermediate run of the supporting structure. To distribute the load, spacers are placed under the racks so that the racks do not “pierce” the ceiling. In this case, the error often lies in the fact that they do not withstand the minimum (1.8 m) length of the gaskets, as a result of which these too short “shoes” load not floor beams, but flooring elements that are not designed for this and are destroyed.

The wall behind the Mauerlat with a mansard roof is not insulated

This place of great length between the wall and the roof will become a significant defect in the thermal protection of the building.

In the finished attic, it will no longer be possible to insulate the unit.

Therefore, behind the Mauerlat and the reinforced concrete strapping belt, as well as above them, it is necessary to lay a layer of insulation from expanded polystyrene or mineral wool. This place is difficult to access, and builders usually forget about it or try not to bother themselves too much. So, the insulation of the Mauerlat will have to be followed.

Roof problems

Most often, builders try to make it easier for themselves to cover the roof by using wide sheets of material. This is of course fast and convenient, but for the guests of the building it is fraught with inconvenience.

For example, too large a sheet surface will make noise under raindrops or light winds, causing considerable inconvenience. The most optimal sheet width that does not spoil comfort is a width up to or equal to 0.75 meters.

You should never use roofing felt for arranging a roof. The result may be condensation. Moisture leads to rusting of the metal coating or to rotting of the crate. According to the standards, the laying of sheets of roofing material must be carried out directly on the crate and with a ventilated cold attic. If a warm attic is needed, then vapor barrier and thermal insulation should be placed directly under the roof.

Gutter installed incorrectly

Incorrect installation of the eaves gutter is the source of many errors. Most often, they arrange a reverse slope of the gutter in which water is collected. Gradually, dirt accumulates in stagnant water, metal corrosion begins; through the holes in the gutter, water enters the wall and freezes on it.

The reverse slope also occurs when laying the gutter on freshly painted brackets. The gutter sticks to the paint and warps with thermal expansion. The same is obtained with too rigid fastening of the gutter to the brackets. If the brackets are not covered with anti-corrosion insulation, corrosion will spread from the brackets to the gutter and render it unusable.

The gutter does not fulfill its function if the drain cup is not properly inserted into the downpipe - water flows from the outside, and the wind blows spray onto the wall. If the inner edge of the gutter closest to the wall is lower than the outer one, in case of an unexpected downpour, water will also overflow onto the wall.

When covering roof eaves, drain aprons are often forgotten and side wind blows rainwater onto the wall. The cover, if fixed at long intervals, is blown away by the wind. During work, it happens that folds are heated or no roof locks are made at all. Rainwater is carried under the roof by side winds. Plastic cornices and downpipes are less resistant to impact loads, solar radiation than metal and lose their strength over the years.

Errors in the manufacture of door and window openings

Recently, polyurethane foam has been widely used. It allows you to facilitate the installation of doors and windows: a box is placed in the wall openings, and the gaps are filled with mounting foam. The connection, at first glance, is reliable.

But keep in mind that the durability of the mounting foam is much less than the life of the house. Corresponding elements should ensure the reliability of door and window frames. In a wooden house, this function is performed by a spike included in the groove made in the side faces of the openings. In a stone house, windows are protected from blowing through by a ledge in the wall (shoulder), which partially covers the box. Mounting foam can only serve as an additional sealant for openings.

Engineering equipment

Installation of engineering networks and equipment is performed before the interior decoration of the building. This is a crucial stage of work, on which comfort and safety in the house depend. Errors in the selection and installation of equipment will not lead to a global catastrophe, but can lead to unreasonably high costs in the operation of the building.

Only exhaust ventilation is made, air flow into the house is not provided

If there is no inflow, the hood will not work, the humidity in the house will increase. During the operation of a boiler or fireplace that burns oxygen in the room, a reverse draft may form - air flow into the house through the exhaust duct, including one designed to remove combustion products. Carbon monoxide will accumulate in the house, which will create a danger to life.

If the flow of air could not be foreseen in advance, then windows should be installed that provide for ventilation, or one of the windows in the house should be kept ajar at all times. This is best done in a room where there is a boiler or fireplace.

The volume of air exchange, the location of the ventilation ducts and the method of organizing the flow of air into the house should be indicated in the project. In a modern house with sealed windows, special openings should be provided for the inflow. It is also necessary to comply with the regulations for the installation of gas boiler equipment, requiring the boiler to be placed in a separate room with a window. The presence of supply and exhaust ventilation is also extremely important in the garage, where a running engine creates a dangerous situation.

A boiler was delivered with a large power reserve compared to the calculated

Working most of the time in reduced power mode, the boiler will consume more energy than a less powerful one and wear out faster.

The correct margin is considered to be the power reserve of the boiler over the heat loss of the house by no more than 10-15%. For most of the heating season, the boiler must operate at a power of at least 50%. The lower the boiler load, the lower its efficiency and relatively higher fuel consumption. Remember this.

Chimneys not insulated

Heating appliances - stoves and boilers are heated during the combustion, so the need to isolate combustible structural elements of the house from them is obvious. Brick chimneys are another matter - they remain slightly warm even after a long firebox, so they are often placed too close to the combustible structures of the house without proper thermal insulation of the latter.

However, it should be remembered that soot accumulates in chimneys, which one day can catch fire. At the same time, the pipe (chimney) is very hot, especially if it has microcracks that are invisible and not too dangerous in the normal state. Overheating of the pipe can lead to ignition of house structures located too close to it.

Of course, the probability of such an event is not great, but the consequences are very severe: firefighters usually arrive when at least one house burns down.

Typical mistakes when laying chimneys

Mistakes made when laying chimneys lead to serious consequences. Danger to life occurs when, for some reason, a backflow of smoke is formed, which accumulates in the room and causes suffocation. Smoke backflow can also occur where two paired chimneys communicate with each other and smoke is filtered. Smoke in this way unexpectedly enters the adjacent room, creating a danger to life.

To avoid mistakes when laying chimneys, a careful choice of the material from which they are made is necessary. It is absolutely unacceptable to use insufficiently dense, slightly burnt wall bricks, silicate bricks or brick fragments for masonry.

A pipe built from defective bricks can no longer be repaired, it is dismantled and a new one is laid. Sometimes mistakes are made even if the pipe is made of durable brick with whole edges. Due to the limited space, the wall between the chimneys is laid out of brick on edge. At the first cleaning of the pipe, such masonry is destroyed.

Parts of the pipes that rise above the roof should preferably be rubbed with cement mortar so that the seams are flush with the brick. This will prevent the penetration of moisture into the seam and its freezing. Sometimes, on the contrary, they do grouting, in which water can accumulate, which will subsequently lead to the destruction of the chimney.

Pipe heads above the roof are most exposed to atmospheric influences, in addition, they periodically heat up and cool down. The most suitable material for pipe heads is reinforced concrete, since it is easiest to make, for example, a teardrop in it. The dripper prevents water from penetrating into the connection between the head and the pipe.

When erecting pipes above the roof, the following mistakes are made. Most often, the upper edge of the pipe is not raised above the roof ridge. In this case, the wind clogs the smoke into the chimney, and it penetrates into the living space.

What problems does moisture bring?

Moisture usually does the most damage to wood. It can be in the form of water, vapor or ice. A poorly dried tree can become moldy or start to rot. It is caused by mold and putrefactive fungi. Fungal spores can be dispersed by wind or insects. With favorable humidity and temperature, they begin to quickly penetrate into the cells of the tree.

The fungus does not reduce the strength of the wood, but for example the ability to absorb paint can be impaired due to the destruction of the cells and this will be noticeable on the finished surface. Wood damaged by mold must not be varnished.

High humidity (20…40%) and temperature +3…+40°С are ideal conditions for mold growth. The best way to protect wood from mold is to dry the boards so that their moisture content is below 20%. During storage and during operation, it is necessary to ensure that the humidity does not exceed this value. If lumber is harvested in the spring, they are stored at a height of at least 40 cm from the ground ( rice. 1).
Rice. 1. A method of storing lumber with ventilation gaps that protect the lumber from moisture.

The ideal environment for putrefactive fungus is a humidity of 30 ... 60%. This fungus is carried by moisture even through bricks, insulation, etc. The best way to prevent wood decay from infecting wood is to ventilate the building. In buildings where it is impossible to monitor the humidity of air and wood, it is necessary to use specially treated materials. Moisture can occur when the roof leaks due to improper layout, errors in the construction of rafters and cornices. The service life of a door without a porch, even when painted, is 12…15 years. The windows of the house without cornices and antiseptics can be used up to 15 years.

In homes, damage from rainwater leaks and dampening of structures is often due to design errors and, to a greater extent, due to violations of construction technology ( rice. 2). For example, roofs leak, as a rule, in places where pipes pass, due to poor sealing. This disadvantage can be eliminated by using plastic seals or, for example, mounting foam. There are no such seals for chimneys, but a good tin cuff is quite sufficient in this case.
Rice. 2. Insufficiently steep slope of the roof and the absence of reliable aprons leads to leaks in the roofing: 1 - tin.

Leakage in openings is caused by the following reasons:

• the lining is connected incorrectly;
• the tin apron is made without edging;
• fastening by nails is made without necessary consolidations and rusty nails.

Rainwater damage to the façade can occur in the following cases:

• tin window drains are not tightly fitted or their slope is small;
• wooden structures are too close to the ground in places unprotected from excessive moisture ( rice. 3);

Rice. 3. Properly made connection of a tin drain and window trim, as well as a fairly high basement on the facade: 1 - side board of the window trim; 2 - slope of the window opening; 3 - tin drain; 4 - oblique saw cut of sheathing boards.

• in parts of the wall not covered by a canopy, materials were used that do not ensure the long-term safety of the structure ( rice. 4);

Rice. 4. Destruction of the outer enclosing structure due to the penetration of water vapor into it: 1 - outer protective layer of plastic; 2 - frozen water vapor; 3 - a crack in the vapor barrier layer.

• errors in the performance of painting work, due to which water is absorbed by materials;
• sewer pipes are installed incorrectly or when installing the lining, they forgot about the drain chute;
• the seams of the chimney masonry are untreated, so they absorb and conduct rainwater into the structure.

If the humidity in the room is higher than in the open air, damage to building structures may occur. To prevent this from happening, special vents must be provided to remove moisture. Polyethylene film is also used to protect structures from water vapor. It must be transparent so that you can check the quality of the vapor barrier work. In this case, the strips of the film must overlap (20 cm) and be carefully fitted and glued with adhesive tape. Under the outer cladding of buildings, space for air flows must be provided (minimum 25 mm in wooden buildings). In the foundation, excess moisture can be removed through the capillaries into the soil. When this occurs, the formation of a layer of salts on the paint and its rupture. Therefore, the outer surface of the foundation should, in addition to drainage, be protected at least with coating waterproofing.

Poorly ventilated foundations are also susceptible to moisture. The height of the ventilated space should be large enough - about 40 cm.

Protection against water vapor coming from the soil can be a polyethylene film, on which gravel or crushed stone is laid as ballast. The plastic must be laid above the drainage level ( rice. 5).
Rice. 5. Properly designed and covered with plastic ground surface: 1 - holes for ventilation; 2 - polyethylene film.

Water freezing on the roof can cause damage to downspouts and gutters, and if ice falls from the roof, destroy the pavement around the building. Usually ice forms if there is not enough space under the eaves for ventilation. In this case, part of the roof heats up, the snow lying on it melts. The flowing water, falling on the cold areas of the roof, freezes. Close to the eaves, the insulation of the outer part should be made of a rigid sheet (1 m wide), which can be reinforced so that the ventilation openings are wide enough ( rice. 6).
Rice. 6. Formation of ice on the roof due to poor insulation and poor ventilation: 1 - snow as thermal insulation; 2 - formation of ice.

Ground freezing damage

If the temperature below the soil surface drops below 0°C, the water it contains freezes. The pressure of the freezing water will not find a way down, as the soil is quite dense. The thickness of the soil subject to freezing is called the freezing depth. The depth of freezing decreases by 20...50% under the influence of snow cover.

The depth of freezing is also affected by frost, the thermal conductivity of the soil and the water content in it. The depth of freezing increases during the winter. In spring, thawing begins from the surface to the freezing line and very rarely vice versa. Since the resulting moisture is not absorbed by the frozen soil, the soil on the surface softens and increases in volume the more the more water was in it. Such a rise in the soil can reach 20 cm. This phenomenon can be prevented on the paths in the yards by using coarse backfills (granite crushed stone) that do not freeze in winter, and a drainage system ( rice. 7).
Rice. 7. Boundary of swelling of the soil due to its freezing: 1 - rise of the soil during freezing; 2 - freezing front; 3 - freezing depth; 4 - non-freezing bulk layer.

Typical damage caused by ground freezing:

• slope of fence and lampposts ( rice. 8);

Rice. 8. Due to the absence of snow on the roads, which acts as a heat-insulating layer, the depth of soil freezing under it is greater, along its shoulders. As a result, there is a change in the position of lamp and telegraph poles placed along the roads: 1 - snow; 2 - road; 3 - the boundary of the freezing depth.

• distortion of the entrance plate inside;
• lifting the foundation of the cold part of the building, such as a veranda;
• the movement of plates on the paths in the yard;
• the formation of cracks in the base;
• skewed doors and windows, because of which they stop opening

Damage is also caused by the warping of the foundation when building a house on clay and sandy soils. The failure of the soil in this case occurs due to its subsidence ( rice. 9). Therefore, before starting the construction of a house, it is imperative to analyze the composition of the soil.

Rice. 9. The failure of the foundation is caused by the different composition of the soil at the base of the building, differences in loads, insufficiently carefully compacted backfill, changes in the groundwater level: 1 - bulk soil.

When building a house on bulk soils, it is necessary to ensure the compaction of the base under the foundations. It is not enough just to roll the bulk soil, it must also be carefully compacted.

Polycarbonate greenhouses stand out for their good design, long service life, but only if they are assembled correctly.

The advantages of polycarbonate greenhouses are:

1. Resistance to physical damage and water;
2. You can assemble designs of the desired shape;
3. high ability to transmit light;
4. long terms of use - up to 20 years.

First mistake. Location for the greenhouse. One of the main nuances is the illumination of the area where the greenhouse should be installed. It is important that it is exposed to the sun most of the time.

Second mistake. Choice of season for installation. Usually a greenhouse is placed either in the spring or in the autumn. But we must pay attention to the fact that the temperature during the installation of the greenhouse does not fall below zero.

Third mistake. Fastening the greenhouse to the base. When buying a greenhouse, you need to avoid mistakes with the choice of base. Currently, the mass of greenhouses designed for installation both on the foundation and on the ground. Fourth mistake. The choice of a collapsible greenhouse frame. Greenhouse frames differ in types. They are divided into compact transportation and all-welded.

Fifth mistake. Purchase of material for the frame. The most durable will be greenhouses made of corrugated pipes, which are made in several types: a single tube or a frame tube.

Sixth mistake. Buying bad polycarbonate. You can easily make a mistake when buying polycarbonate for a greenhouse. In order not to make a mistake, you need to know a couple of nuances. Firstly, you do not need to purchase polycarbonate from those manufacturers whose names include "eco", "economy".

Seventh mistake. Poor-quality installation of polycarbonate. The main aspect when installing polycarbonate is to remember that the sheet should be directed towards the sun's rays with the side on which the UV protection is located. Also a very important aspect will be the bending of polycarbonate, it must be directed by perpendicular channels.

Eighth mistake. Lack of accessories. Also, a mistake when using cellular polycarbonate in greenhouses will be the fact that the consumer does not use additional fittings and special fastening tools. Sometimes they often play an important role in the service life and quality of our design.

Ninth mistake. The choice of the internal content of the greenhouse. When installing polycarbonate greenhouses, we may be plagued by oversights related to the internal maintenance of the greenhouse.

When purchasing a greenhouse, you need to understand for which crops it is planned to build a greenhouse and start from this.

Tenth mistake. Incorrect preservation for the winter. Most of the broken greenhouses that need to be replaced with polycarbonate at the beginning of the season are the result of incorrect conservation of the greenhouse.

It is important to make a vertical emphasis. If there are automatic ventilation systems in the greenhouse, the pistons for the winter period must be removed and kept warm, because at sub-zero temperatures the risk of damage to the piston increases.

If you use an automatic watering system, for the winter period you also need to remove it and store it in heat. The doorways of the greenhouse for the winter season need to be slightly opened so that the ground freezes.

And what mistakes did you make when installing the greenhouse frame? Share your experience in the comments.

To cover greenhouses, it is recommended to use cellular polycarbonate. Compared to polyethylene or glass, traditional covering materials, polycarbonate has a number of key advantages. This applies to thermal insulation properties, light transmission, low specific gravity, high strength, etc. But when such a greenhouse is assembled with your own hands, installation errors cannot be avoided. Below we will talk about the main ones that beginner gardeners may encounter.

Mistake #1: The north side is transparent

The error is not critical, but it can reduce the yield by at least a third. The north side of the structure is colder, so it must be made reflective. Experienced craftsmen use matte opaque sheets, the height of which reaches 1.5-2 meters, depending on the height of the greenhouse.

Mistake #2. Colored polycarbonate sheets

On the net, you can often find the statement that green sheets of cellular polycarbonate accelerate the growth of plants. This is a big misconception. Green color will never speed up the process of photosynthesis, namely, thanks to it, cultures grow and develop. The best solution would be a completely transparent sheet that allows sunlight to pass through. If greenhouses are used in the southern regions, it is advisable to shade transparent structures. To do this, you can use a camouflage net with cells of 10-15 mm or cover the walls with lime. It is easily washed off, but it shades the plants well and they do not burn out.

Mistake number 3. Incorrect location of the greenhouse

This is not feng shui, but simple logic that allows you to properly optimize the garden space. The greenhouse, which was installed taking into account the wind rose, receives the optimal amount of sunlight and enough heat for the plants to develop in the same way as in the open field, but being protected from bad weather and precipitation.

Mistake number 4. Installation of polycarbonate in winter

In the already assembled state, cellular polycarbonate is relatively resistant to temperature changes, but if the installation takes place at temperatures below 8 ° C, it may burst.

Mistake number 5. All-welded construction is better than collapsible

In this case, many people have a stereotype that everything moving sooner or later breaks down. In fact, a collapsible polycarbonate greenhouse has two significant advantages - it is light and easy to disassemble and move to another place. This is especially important when, after 3-5 years, the soil is depleted and no longer nourishes the plants as it should. But on the other hand, all-welded is more stable than collapsible and the service life is a little longer.

Mistake No. 6. Incorrect shape and angle of the sheet surface

This is typical for arched, domed and drop-shaped greenhouses, in which glare appears on the roof when the sun is active. Such a glare is fraught with a lack of plants receiving all the necessary amount of sunlight and a slowdown in the process of photosynthesis.
For long-term cultivation of vegetables and fruits, it is advisable to purchase or build greenhouses with your own hands with a single or gable roof.

Mistake number 7. Buying cheap polycarbonate

For those who first come across such material, it seems that the difference between them is only in thickness and color. In fact, the difference is deeper and it lies, first of all, in production technology. Without advertising to anyone, we only note that preference should be given to well-known manufacturers.

Mistake number 8. Saving on fittings

Perhaps. the most popular mistake when trying to replace thermal washers with ordinary self-tapping screws. The price savings are small, but the polycarbonate sheets at the point where the self-tapping screw is attached burst very quickly.

It is difficult to get a good harvest in adverse weather. The main assistant in this can be a greenhouse. With the industrial production of polycarbonate, there are more and more adherents of this type of coating, which is quite justified. Of course, it is convenient to order or purchase a ready-made greenhouse, pay for its installation to specialists, and, as they say, the matter is in openwork. But, it is very difficult. If you want to save money, then there are 2 options:

• purchase a factory frame and coating, and mount a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands;
• purchase the necessary materials, independently make a frame (made of metal or wood), install it and mount the coating.

We determine the place for the greenhouse and the time of construction

How not to make a mistake with the location

When deciding on the installation site of the greenhouse, it is necessary to take into account several facts:

• illumination. Photosynthesis in plants is impossible without light. Therefore, it is unreasonable to install a greenhouse even in a slight shading, it should be illuminated as much as possible by the sun.
• orientation to the cardinal points. The ideal location of the greenhouse is from west to east in width, while the gables or ends will be facing from south to north. In this option, the plants will receive the best lighting from the sun's rays.
• lowlands, heated in the spring by melt waters, are not suitable. In such places, the air temperature is lower, and the humidity is much higher, which negatively affects the growth of plants. A greenhouse in a lowland cools more strongly at night, and warms up longer during the day.

The greenhouse is located in a sunny place

The optimal time to install a greenhouse

Greenhouses are usually installed in the autumn or early spring. If polycarbonate is supposed to be used as a coating, then it should be taken into account that it is undesirable to bend or bend sheets at low temperatures. This is due to the fact that in the summer in the heat the temperature difference will be maximum, the plastic will expand, which will necessarily affect the attachment points, and additional sealing will be required. 10-12 ° C - the optimum temperature for the installation of a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands. It is at this temperature that the difference in summer and winter will be approximately equal, within 25-30 °C.

Greenhouses with polycarbonate coating are best installed at 10-12 degrees Celsius

The dependence of the greenhouse model on whether it will be mounted on the ground or foundation

The greenhouse with polycarbonate coating can be installed both on the ground and on the base. If you plan to buy a factory greenhouse and install it yourself on the foundation, then you should choose models with frame arcs ending with nickels (heels) or special plates attached to the foundation with anchor bolts. When installing the factory frame of the greenhouse on the ground, models with different types of fastening are suitable. Some manufacturers produce arcs with pins that dig into the ground, others with an inverted letter T, which also digs into the soil, but fixing the greenhouse more securely.

Greenhouse frame with a loop into which a long pin is driven

The strongest fastening of the greenhouse to both the ground and the foundation can be achieved by choosing a model with a rigid frame strapping. Loops are welded to a profile pipe located directly on the ground or foundation. Special metal pipes-piles, about 1 m long, included in the kit, are inserted into them and driven in, but not completely. Otherwise, when the soil settles (which is possible over time), the pile may come out of the loop. If you leave about 20 cm of pipe-piles on the surface, it will not be difficult to correct the situation.

Video about building a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands

At the first stage, the old building was dismantled. Further, a new one was built on this site and a pavilion was added, connected by one wall.

Choosing a greenhouse frame

All-welded frame or collapsible?

Collapsible frames include frames that consist of elements of pipes and slats that are assembled into a structure directly on the site. Such frames are easy to transport, and the trunk of a car is also suitable. But due to the large number of connection nodes, the service life of the greenhouse will be somewhat less.

Collapsible greenhouse frame

One-piece frames consist of all-welded gables and one-piece bent arches, manufactured at the factory. On the site, it remains only to expose and connect. However, transporting such is problematic. They are more durable, more reliable, more stable, but their delivery will require additional material investments.

Front parts of an all-welded frame

Lightweight frame or reinforced?

The frame of the greenhouse can be from a single pipe or frame. The frame frame consists of an outer tube that carries the main load, and an amplifier located under it.

The wall thickness of the metal and the cross section of the profile pipe are no less important. For the Central region of Russia, where snowfalls are not uncommon, a metal thickness of less than 1.5 mm is unacceptable. If we talk about strength, then the frame pipe with a section of 40x20 mm is better than with a section of 20x20 mm. All these characteristics are indicated in the passport of the greenhouse, it is easy to figure it out. It is also necessary to read in the passport whether the manufacturer recommends installing props under the frame in the winter. A polycarbonate greenhouse on a reinforced frame does not require maintenance in the winter, i.e. after snowfalls, there is no need to remove snow from it.

Reinforced greenhouse frame

How not to make a mistake with the choice of polycarbonate for coating

To choose the right sheets of cellular polycarbonate, you need to know some subtleties:

Polycarbonate Sheet Strength Test

And yet, an important indicator is the warranty period. High-quality polycarbonate sheets have a manufacturer's warranty of 10 years or more.

The nuances of installing polycarbonate

Sheets should be placed with the side facing the sun on which UV protection is applied. When covering greenhouses of an arched or swept type, bending of sheets is possible only in a direction perpendicular to the channels. Bending in a direction parallel to the channels can lead to creases.

Polycarbonate channels should be located vertically or close to it. This is due to the fact that the polymer is hygroscopic in structure, a lot of moisture accumulates in it. So that the condensate, which can provoke mold formation processes, calmly flows down, the sheets are placed vertically to the channels.

Edging vapor permeable tape

To prevent dust, dirt, insects, etc. from entering. into polycarbonate channels, the sheets must be sealed. The best option is a two-stage protection using special tapes, end profiles or their rubber counterparts.

When building a greenhouse, polycarbonate is mounted on metal or wood. The coefficient of linear expansion of the frame material and the polymer do not match. Therefore, thermal gaps are required so that plastic ruptures, waves and other undesirable phenomena do not form during temperature changes. To do this, in plastic, the diameter of the holes should be made larger than the diameter of the holes in metal or wood.

What does saving on fittings lead to?

Sometimes, when buying a frame and a cover, people decide to save on specialized mounting kits, the so-called fittings. It is what attaches the plastic to the frame that determines the life of the greenhouse. You can seal the point fastening, eliminate plastic breaks and leakage using polycarbonate thermal washers or gasket pads with rubber inserts.

Thermal washers for fastening polycarbonate sheets to the frame

Sealing vapor permeable tapes are needed in order to close the open channels of polycarbonate. Otherwise, dust can settle in them, rubbish, etc. can get into them, which will cause the transparency of the plastic to drop sharply. Adhesive tape is not suitable for these purposes, because. it does not release condensate, the sheets fog up from this. The steam-transmitting tape has microfilters through which airing occurs and if fogging occurs, it will quickly pass. To prevent this tape from moving away from polycarbonate sheets under the influence of rain and snow, end edging profiles will be required. On straight planes, polycarbonate or aluminum profiles are used, and on arcuate planes, a rubber seal is preferred.

Fixing the edging tape with a rubber seal

When choosing and installing a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, many questions may arise, we tried to highlight the main ones. But if your question remains behind the scenes, ask our experts.