Fashion houses in France. What is french fashion. Wine, champagne and cognac
Fragrances are always exclusive. Perfume fashion reflects global trends, but the best perfume brands have a lot of luxury offerings for every taste.
Homeland of fashion: perfumes from different countries
In fairness, it should be noted that the best perfume brands leave the answer to the question “what perfumes are in fashion now?” absolutely open. There are simply no hard and fast rules.
But there are several directions that set global trends. And most importantly, what they offer is complexly assembled bouquets of fragrances, each of which is interesting and new in its own way.
Such, for example, as Giorgio Armani presents this season: the base of the fragrance is a classic Iranian rose, and the smells of currant and cedar complement it. Such complex and unexpected compositions are the main trend of the season. Several very feminine and sensual fragrances are in fashion at once, which have become the basis of the best compositions of this season. These are the smells of ylang-ylang, jasmine, tuberose and orchids.
When deciding which perfume scent is in fashion in 2019, it is now easier to exclude irrelevant smells and trends. Almost all perfumers have ignored "heavy", tart and too sweet fragrances, as well as smells in the "unisex" style. But a completely new direction has been the emergence of fragrances with typical "male" notes - mahogany, sandalwood and even genuine leather. At the same time, the trend has nothing to do with the “unisex” style, such “masculine” notes set off delicate and luxurious floral arrangements.
One of the main trends in fashion for perfumes in 2019 is fresh “green” fragrances and the most delicate compositions based on them.
Lime, mint, saffron, basil or wormwood, which was chosen as the main note this year by one of the classics - the Guerlain brand. A slightly tart and “coldish” aroma of wormwood sets off the most delicate floral composition based on the scents of white peony and lilies - very feminine and elegant, but at the same time a completely new and fresh scent. Guerlain is one of the brightest representatives of the European style, or rather, classic French.
But no less interesting is the American version of what perfumes 2019 are in fashion. They are offered by two brands at once, representatives of a completely different and more cosmopolitan style.
Donna Karan creates great fragrances for the women of the world's capitals and develops the theme of "green" fragrances in her own way. The basis of her compositions this year: green tea combined with hibicus and tea rose. A light, very elegant scent, neutral and at the same time well recognizable, it is addressed to self-confident ladies.
As well as perfumes from limited collections from Elizabeth Arden. The brand also took “green” and fruity scents as a basis: apples and green tea, shading the composition with slightly cold and expressive notes of chypre fragrances. Despite the fact that France is considered the birthplace of fashion and perfumes, American brands offer their own, in many ways unique concepts of fashionable smells. And unlike French brands (which is important!) they do not divide them into youth and "adults". This is a great offer for those who are looking for new, but at the same time topical perfumes.
New versions of their own classic fragrances are offered by such luminaries as Christian Dior and, of course, Chanel. The most famous and, in fact, reference perfume "Chanel No. 19" has found a completely new composition, while maintaining the femininity and exclusive elegance of the bouquet. Lilies of the valley, daffodils and irises are the base, which is made brighter and more dramatic by the top notes - aromas of neroli and bergamot.
Chanel, like Dior, maintains France's reputation as a country of fashionable perfumes by creating canonical and noble fragrances. But at the same time, they creatively approach the creation of new compositions addressed to a youth audience. Dior this season perfectly plays with the “fruity” theme, the basis for the new collection is an unusual combination of quince and grapefruit aromas.
The smell of fruits and berries is one of the freshest trends, which is perfectly revealed by the Givenchy brand in its fragrances. Light, summer, gentle, literally "airy" compositions are created on the basis of classic aromas of rose and musk. But the notes of orange, apricot and peach are decisive in them.
What women's perfumes are in fashion now: oriental and floral fragrances
When deciding which women's perfumes are in fashion now, in 2019 you should not lose sight of the "oriental" fragrances - literally enveloping and slightly spicy. An example of such a fragrance, deep and very expressive, created on the basis of a combination of black orchid and spices, is offered by Tom Ford. The only thing, when referring to oriental fragrances, do not forget that they are ideal for ladies of elegant age. Lighter and youthful perfumes with a bewitching oriental composition are “collected” from the aromas of sandalwood, patchouli and even incense, combined with rich aromas of roses.
The perfect perfume is an eternal search. Moreover, any of the brands answers the question “what perfume fragrance is in fashion now?” in my own way. This means that there is a reason to reconsider one's own preferences and views even on classic brands and their fragrances. Such, for example, as suggested by Esteè Lauder. Floral, clean and at the same time slightly sweet, literally "girlish" compositions - the brand's signature style, addressed to romantic people of all ages. Magnolia, orange blossom, lilies, peonies and, of course, roses are the signature style, but this year Esteè Lauder complements her compositions with notes of mahogany and cedar. A fresh and very elegant combination that absolutely answers the question of what women's perfumes are in fashion right now.
The complex mixes created this season by both luminaries and young brands are almost all built on complex and informal combinations. In search of your fragrance, it is enough to choose your favorite flowers or fruits as the main "base" note and not to lose sight of the "top" notes - the smells of spices, coffee or precious woods.
Dior (Dior) Christian Dior could not find his purpose in life for a long time.
He studied at the Diplomatic Academy in Paris, tried to keep his own art gallery, in the fashion houses "Robert Piguet» (Robert Piguet) and Lucien Lelong. Finally, in 1946, Christian Dior opened his own fashion house.
Less than a year later, he became famous all over the world: on February 12, 1947, the Dior collection "new look" (new look) made a real cultural revolution.
Interestingly, fashion historians consider Dior not so much a talented designer as a good stylist and a competent entrepreneur who guessed what to offer the public and how to sell it competently. Yes, the silhouette hourglass” with a fluffy skirt and a wasp waist, which formed the basis of the “new bow” style, was not invented by Dior at all: this style was known much earlier. But Dior proposed these classical proportions "in right time and in the right place”: in the late 1940s, ladies tired of military asceticism wanted to feel fragile and elegant again.
After the death of Dior in 1957, the House was headed by his young assistant Yves Saint Laurent. Today, the Creative Director of the House is John Galliano.
GIVENCHY
Givenchy. Hubert de Givenchy is considered an aristocrat of the fashion world, not so much because of his origins, but because of the elegant style to which he was faithful throughout his career.
This style was said to be too sophisticated, and the designer was compared to a "little prince" creating his own worlds.
However, by and large, he did not create any style of Givenchy.
His main invention is the cinematic image of Audrey Hepburn, whom he met in 1953. Hepburn was then preparing to star in the film Sabrina. Designed for "Sabrina" dresses brought Hubert de Givenchy the first "Oscar" for costumes and turned Audrey into a "fashion icon".
Since then, she has become the permanent muse of the designer. So, in 1957, Givenchy dedicates his first perfume to Audrey - L "lnterdit: in the future, Givenchy House will become an active player in the perfume market.
In 1988, Hubert de Givenchy sold his house to LVMH, but retained his position as art director.
In 1996, the "little prince" leaves the world of fashion forever. Today, the tradition of the House is continued by Briton Ozwald Boateng.
YvesSaintLaurent
Yves Saint Laurent.
The offspring of an aristocratic family, Yves Saint Laurent owes a lot to his mother Lucien. It was she who noticed in a sickly boy a penchant for the profession of a designer and cultivated it in every possible way.
At the age of 19, Yves Saint Laurent entered the competition for young designers and became its winner - along with the young Karl Lagerfeld. After this victory, many doors opened before him: in particular, Christian Dior himself offered him the post of his assistant.
Yves Saint Laurent fully lived up to Dior's expectations, but his mission in fashion was completely different: if Dior's fashion was mature and elegant, then Yves Saint Laurent was always a rebel, an innovator who brought to fashion something that was not there before . He was the first to offer ladies tuxedos, trouser suits, sheer dresses and safari style. He posed naked for a commercial for his men's perfume (1971) and gave the women's perfume the provocative name Opium (1977).
Being a 100% creator, Laurent would hardly have been able to create his House without the support of a talented manager - Pierre Berger. Their collaboration began in 1961 and continued until the death of the great couturier: Yves Saint Laurent died on June 1, 2008.
LANVIN
Lanvin.
At first professional activity Jeanne Lanvin made headdresses. Hats at the end of the 19th century were the main ladies' accessories, so things were going well in her hat atelier, opened in 1890.
Soon Jeanne Lanvin switched to the production of women's clothing and by 1909 she had already acquired her own Fashion House, famous evening dresses: romantic and richly decorated with embroidery "a la XVIII century" and extravagant - in oriental style. The oriental theme was at the height of fashion at that time, and Jeanne Lanvin, who possessed not only the talent of a designer, but also an entrepreneurial flair, never lost sight of key trends.
So, in the 30s, when women's fashion just appeared wide pants, House Lanvin produced the famous evening "pajamas" for going out. And after the Second World War, he switched to the New Look style proposed by Christian Dior.
Fashion, among other things, owes Jeanne Lanvin one extremely useful discovery: she shared women's clothing for adults and children. Madame Lanvin was the first designer to create a full-fledged children's collection, not similar to clothes for adult women. The first to try it on was the daughter of Jeanne Lanvin - Marie Blanche. She inherited the House of Lanvin after her mother's death in 1946. Alber Elbaz is currently the head designer of the House.
CHANEL
Chanel (Chanel).
Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel was a great inventor all her life: she came up with not only a small black dress(1926), the first synthesized perfume in history that did not repeat the smell of any natural plant (Chanel No. 5, 1921), quilted handbags on a chain and loose tweed suits (1954).
She also thoroughly “worked” on her biography: she added something, hid something, and, like a true woman, pushed back her date of birth by ten years.
She started her career in a women's hat shop. And her first “full-fledged” fashion house opened in the resort town of Deauville, where the “rich and famous” spent their holidays.
In 1919, she could already afford a boutique in Paris - it opened on Cambon Street (where it still stands today).
As a designer, Coco Chanel never had her head in the clouds. On the contrary, she was too "out of this world", and her ideas were primarily practical. Her main talent was the ability to "rethink" well-known things and find new uses for them. So, at her suggestion, a men's sweater became a part of women's wardrobes, cheap jewelry and an "orphan" black dress turned into an evening classic, and loose tweed became a symbol of elegance.
Gabrielle Chanel passed away on January 10, 1971. It is noteworthy that only three suits were found in her closet: a practical look at things extended to her own wardrobe.
France is one of the first countries to make a turn in fashion at the beginning of the 19th century. Thanks to famous French fashion houses such as Chanel, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Ungaro, Givenchy, Christian Lacroix, Hermes, Jean Paul Gaultier and others famous names, modeling and creating clothes ceased to be a craft and became an art. In addition, much of what we use now, what we wear, and what seems so natural and ordinary to us, first appeared precisely thanks to famous French fashion designers.
The dominance of French fashion began in the middle of the 17th century, during the time of Louis XIV. It was then that the phenomenon of "world fashion" was born. Clothing gradually began to obey certain laws dictated by the French royal court. Even then, France made its contribution to the development of fashion: corset, umbrella, high heels, lacing on the bodice, lorgnette, cocked hat.
The name Coco Chanel is inscribed in gold letters in the history of modern fashion. Her first discovery was the men's English classic style for women. Short haircuts, jackets, knitted pullovers and plaid skirts, a handbag with a thin shoulder strap and a little black dress that has become a symbol of the elegance of the twentieth century ... All this was invented and created by Coco Chanel. She was the first to reflect the twentieth century in fashion, combining comfort and elegance in her works.
Her spirits require a separate story Chanel #5 that have become legend. In the past, the smell of one flower prevailed in perfumes - roses, violets, jasmine, lilacs, lilies of the valley, mixtures of various aromas in women's perfumes were considered indecent. IN Chanel No. 5 the fragrance of a spring blossoming garden was fragrant. By the way, Chanel herself used her perfume only in the city, in nature she preferred natural aromas.
The secret of Christian Dior's success lay in a new image of a woman, radically different from the fashion of the 40s. Women, tired of the war, wanted to be feminine and graceful. Dior created dresses for ladies with an aspen waist and sloping shoulders, and his puffy skirts took up to 40 meters of luxurious fabrics. The internal design of the model, which allows it to maintain a rigid shape even on a hanger, remains a mystery to this day.
In addition, already in the 50s, Christian Dior created several lines of clothing styling under "H", "X", "Y" and "A". Today, almost no collection is complete without "Dior" silhouettes.
The perfumery sensation of the late 20th century was a set of "poisons" from Christian Dior - Poison, Tendre Poison And Hypnotic Poison. A dark glass flask with a magic potion is a legacy of the Middle Ages. Sensual, spicy aroma and a delicate trail from the bouquet wild berries forever remained the property of Dior.
Yves Saint Laurent devoted more than 40 years to the art of haute couture. None of the fashion designers were so inventive, none created so many styles. The beginning of the creative career of the recognized genius of the century fell on the 60s, the heyday of hippie movements and youth protest against all established traditions.
Innovator and inventor Yves Saint Laurent admitted that he only regrets that he did not invent jeans. But otherwise, the fashion of the last forty years owes him almost everything. Famous trouser suits, transparent dresses and tuxedos, mini has become as familiar as maxi, and black has become the color of the day. Yves Saint Laurent caught new trends in the development of society and exquisitely transformed the spirit of this rebellious time into haute couture.
His most famous perfume can also be called shocking. name idea and appearance vial Opium owned by Yves Saint Laurent. Like all great perfumes, this composition was created in opposition to the fragrances then fashionable: Saint Laurent challenged the perfumers of the Ruhr laboratory to create "something suitable for a Chinese empress."
Cardin is the standard of Parisian taste and chic. In his creations, the principles of classicism are intertwined with modern ideas and innovations. Pierre Cardin quickly found his own style: the silhouette became more and more straight and narrow, with very clear contours. This became hallmark clothes from Cardin.
In 1949, Cardin made a revolutionary move by designing a ready-to-wear collection for industrial replication. The haute couture union expelled the designer from their ranks, but soon recognized such collections, giving them the name “ready-to-wear”. In 1958, he created the first "unisex" line, which united men and women on the principle of a common lifestyle.
Pierre Cardin enthusiastically reacted to the appearance in the 60s. mini fashion. The talent of the master was very much in line with her style: constructiveness, interconnectedness of parts and love for geometric lines. In addition, it was Cardin who invented and brought into fashion tights that match the color of the miniskirt. Cardin also came up with many forms and designs that, in different time conquered the world: straight and tapered "bag" dresses, "tulip" skirts, metal decorations, appliqués and patterns, a hard vinyl border on the hem and crinolines - "lampshades" under tight dresses.
John Galliano is a young Spaniard who lived in England, but became famous as a French fashion designer, he surprises with originality, courage and a cocktail of all kinds of styles, drawing all this from his imagination, emotions and fantasies. He is the lead designer of the Dior Fashion House. Mermaid dress, cut on the bias, with a train painted with lilies. And heels of dizzying height - such is now the Dior woman. Or rather, the Galliano woman.
Among Galliano's inventions are many clothes that were previously considered unsuitable for wearing, and now too traditional. These are, for example, skirts cut along the oblique or the original cut of the sleeve, invented by him back in college.
He loves whimsy, heaps up jewels, embroideries, fringes, appliqués - and at the same time he can tailor a simple dress in such a way that it will be the ultimate dream. A born showman, he can describe with his eyes closed all the technical details of the cut of an 18th century vest.
Galliano is one of the few contemporary designers who actually knows how to sew clothes. Even in our time, when it is difficult to surprise with something modern society, he, in the best traditions of French fashion designers, continues to shock the public.
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Instruction
High fashion originated in France in the 17th century, and in the same place in the middle of the 19th century, Charles Worth created the first fashion house. It is Charles Worth who is the creator of the "Paris Syndicate of High Fashion". The syndicate still defines the criteria for French couturiers to be called haute couture and haute couture.
The reputation of France as a trendsetter in world fashion was ensured by the big names of designers and couturiers who worked there. Children of their land, they created sophisticated, weightless images (for example, the transparent dresses of Yves Saint Laurent), determined the practical business style women, dressing her in Chanel jackets and a little black dress.
It was Coco Chanel, being incredibly talented and wise, who first thought that what matters to a woman is what she wears every day. And at the same time, she managed to combine high fashion and everyday life in one person. Her fashion house, which still exists today, is a model of style and elegance, and her inventions and ideas (such as shoulder bags) continue to live in new generations of fashionistas.
France grew and changed, but, like any country in Europe, it remained true to its traditions. She never participated in the mass "fashion psychosis", but only skillfully revealed the potential of new trends, subtly and with feeling transferring them to the podium, giving them a new life.
It was in a country known for the biggest names in the world of art, with the light hand of the young King Louis XIV, that very fashion, with notes of slight frivolity, was born and began to develop at its best, a fashion that will remain for centuries. Pantoflee, shoes, heels - all these are more or less French inventions. Even the very word "fashion" was adopted by the world from the French.
Moreover, France was not only the inventor of the highest fashion, but even the genres of art that determined its trends. Cinematography, variety artistic creativity, which determines the fashion for absolutely everything - from cars to watches - was also invented in France.
Today, France still dictates fashion, defining the main trends in clothing and style. The style of dressing may be different, but when choosing clothes for their own wardrobe and trying to decide on addictions and trends, fashionistas are sure to get acquainted with reports from Paris Fashion Week.
Clothing, in all its diversity, helps to express one's personality at its best, and French fashion has always glorified the beauty and harmony of a person. Perhaps women would not wear trousers and massive metal jewelry if it were not for Mademoiselle Chanel, perhaps the world would never wear corsets and crinolines again if not for Dior. And today it's hard to imagine modern fashion without light and concise French chic.
Part one. France is not visible yet
Today, perfumery is rightfully identified with France. At the word " Perfume» automatically there is an association - « French". But let's look at where the fashion for fragrances came from and what is known today about the origins of this strange art - perfumery?Perfumes and fragrances are ephemeral and elusive. It is almost impossible to detect them even the next day. But, nevertheless, scientists are trying to compose the history of perfumery, focusing on archeology and analysis. written sources. What did they discover?
Ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia
It is believed that the first people to discover perfumery as such were the inhabitants of ancient egypt . But it is quite possible that the Egyptians did not come up with the idea of decorating life with aromas. And they adopted this tradition in an older Mesopotamia. In any case, the name of the most ancient perfumer known today is read as " Tapputi". Apparently, it was a woman who lived in the second millennium BC. The deciphered cuneiform tablet tells that she was engaged in distillation and processing of oils, flowers, calamus and other aromatic substances.However, cuneiform tablets have not yet been deciphered as much as papyri. Therefore, still most of all is known about the development of perfumery in Egypt. There were two types of perfumery - religious (temple) and household (folk). Of course, to call these substances "perfumery" can be very arbitrary. Religious ceremonies used aromatic smoke from burning materials (most likely - frankincense, balsam, cedarwood, aromatic oils, flowers and bark, other types of combustible aromatics). This material, like the smoke from it, was called " incense and was highly valued.
Incense was burned not only in temples, but also during business negotiations. After all, it was believed that the aroma is pleasing to the gods. There are references to other uses of aromatic smoke. For example, Herodotus testifies that fumigating a house with juniper protected the building from lightning. And the smoke from the rue seeds perfectly protected from the evil eye. That is, it is likely that the origin of this tradition is quite rational - people simply smoked annoying and not very useful insects from buildings - flies, mosquitoes and bedbugs with cockroaches.
"Home" or household perfumes were aromatic oils that were rubbed on the skin. This is quite a traditional way of protection from the hot African sun today. The Egyptians were the first, apparently, to have guessed to add aromatic additives to massage oil.
From the Egyptians, the custom of fumigating with incense passed to Jews, and the tradition of burning incense in honor of God is repeatedly mentioned in the Bible. Jehovah God even gives his recipe (Exodus 30:34-36). There is also a mention in the Bible of the use of aromatic oils. Indeed, it is claimed that Christ personally abolished the custom of burning in 33, recognizing it as pagan. But that's a topic for another conversation.
But back to Egypt. The largest perfume recipe from Egypt, 1500 years old, is called " Ebers papyrus(by the translator's name). It contains a range of beauty recipes. It contains tips on how to smooth out wrinkles, remove warts, dye your hair. Many of the recipes are still relevant today.
And the first and thickest of the Egyptian cosmetic recipes is believed to have been personally compiled. Queen Cleopatra. They lived in the 1st century BC. Alas, this is considered the highest point in the development of Egyptian perfumery. Egypt became a Roman province, and all the specialists went to serve not the provincial Cairo, but the capitals of the new empire - Rome and Byzantium.
Ancient Greece
But long before that, the perfume tradition passed to the Greeks, who came up with its name - "Per Fumum" - "Through the Smoke". It is clear that originally this term referred to the burning of incense. Greek artisans expanded on this art by creating aromatic oils by adding crushed flowers to them. And they discovered the phenomenon of maceration (the removal of odors by immersing aromatic materials in oil). It is known that spirits were used not only by rulers. The well-known founder of the school of "cynics" Diogenes - preferred to rub his feet with perfume, so that the aroma would rise up to cover the whole body, and not evaporate from the head to the delight of birds alone.The oldest perfume workshop today is considered to be a factory that was discovered during excavations. In Cyprus. The prototypes of distillation cubes, pipes, bottles for finished products were found. The oldest perfumes produced more than 4,000 years ago were also found there. Modern experts even tried to recreate their recipe based on the remains found. Recycled in the workshop flowers, herbs, spices, resins of double trees, myrtle, coriander, almond, bergamot…
Ancient Rome and Byzantium
As you capture Roman Empire Greek colonies fashion for fragrances moved to Italy. Roman emperors were adherents of aromas. Otto took with him whole perfume sets on military campaigns; Caligula spent huge sums on incense; and in the dining room Nero silver pipes were equipped, from which fragrant essences fell on the feasting.It is authentically known that after that he brought the fashion of shaving beards and anointing the skin with incense to Rome. Sicilian Menas, in 454 AD (300 years after the death of Nero). And soon a shaved chin and hair smeared with aromatic oils became a sign of a noble person, distinguishing him from commoners and slaves.
IN Byzantine parts of the empire were engaged in the development of perfumery to know. She was especially famous empress zoya. By her order, expensive drugs were delivered from Ethiopia and Arabia, and her chambers, according to the descriptions of eyewitnesses, looked more like an alchemical laboratory.
The development of perfumery in Islamic countries
Alas, as Christianity developed, the culture of consumption of aromatic oils and incense in Europe faded away. It was considered "distracting from the divine" and "pagan". But in the East, this direction continued to develop, since Islam was less strict about scientific research in this direction. After all, according to the prophet Mohammed his heart rejoiced the most "children, women and incense" . And even musk was added to the cement during the construction of mosques, so that the red-hot stones exuded magical armature for many decades. So the center of perfumery moved to the East.In the ninth century, a treatise appeared "The Book of Perfume Chemistry and Distillation", the author of which was al-Kindi from Arabia. The treatise contains recipes for 107 aromatic balms, oils, and aromatic waters. It also describes the equipment for their creation - in particular, an alembic, which still bears the Arabic name "alembic".
The famous healer did not stand aside Ibn Sina (Avicenna). He described in his treatise the process of obtaining rose water - a fragrance more delicate and refined than the oily mixture of crushed petals.
China and India
Countries such as India and China did not stand aside from the development of perfumery.India generally full of aromatics. And the creation of oil perfumes is attributed to the beloved wife of the king Jehan Jira, who saw a couple of drops of rose oil on the surface of the pond and ordered to create this magical liquid. Incense and flowers became the basis of perfumery in India - especially rose and jasmine. Essences were also made by distillation. musk, siveta, amber, nard, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood…
China, which claims to be the first in the world to create everything in the world - from paper to gunpowder - also did not stand aside. Here the favorite flavor was musk, which was also considered a panacea for all diseases. Complemented it patchouli, sandalwood, cinnamon, clove, camphor... by the way, the first description of musk in Europe appeared in descriptions Marco Polo.
Return to Europe
Perfume came back to Europe after the Crusades, among other trophies captured by noble knights for beautiful ladies. Europe gained access to technology, in particular, the alembic. Monks and alchemists (often the same persons) learned the properties of aromatic substances. And they got into the production of fragrances ... no, not in France. Germany(Then " holy roman empire of the german people") And Hungary, - one of the largest European powers. In 1370 in Hungary for Queen Elizabeth the first perfumes of the modern type were made - "Hungarian Water" ("eau de Hongrie") based on essential oil rosemary. It was a fairly simple recipe according to modern concepts, but many miraculous properties were attributed to it - from strengthening male strength to the return of youth and the properties of a bewitching potion.
Very quickly, the art of creating fragrances developed in Italy- more precisely, on the territory of the Apennine Peninsula, in Florence, Rome, Genoa and other trading republics.