Do-it-yourself high-voltage power supply. Do-it-yourself high-voltage power supply Where is the high-voltage module used
Hello High Voltage lovers! I want to post a short review of a device designed to convert low voltage direct current into high voltage pulses. The module has been purchased.
Structurally, the module is a cylinder approximately 65 mm long and 25 mm in diameter. On the cylinder along the entire length of the product there is a flat 15 mm wide. The mass of the module is 50 g.
According to the seller, the module consumes a constant voltage in the range of 3-6 V, at a current of 2-5 A (it is difficult to understand this from the description, but for reasons of context and common sense, this is apparently so). The module is non-separable, completely filled with a compound, from which the power wires and wires to which high voltage is supplied are removed. High-voltage wires are red, low-voltage wires: "plus" - red, "minus" - green.
In general, the module is operational even at a current of about 1 A and a voltage of 1.5 V, but in this case, there are separate high voltage pulses at the output. In this experiment, a power supply with a rated load capacity of 1000 mA was used. A filtering electrolytic capacitor 10000 uF * 16 V is connected in parallel to the high-voltage converter.
In this mode, the module produces a spark about 1 cm long. That is, we can conclude that the voltage at the output of the device is 10-20 kV. In any case, there can be no talk of any 400 kV.
To obtain a constant electric arc, a sufficiently powerful power supply is required, capable of delivering a current of several amperes to the load.
At the rated current at the input, the converter produces a constant arc at the output. The manufacturer warns that it is not advisable to use the module for more than 1 minute, while making sure that the distance between the spark gap contacts is sufficient for a spark to occur, otherwise an electrical breakdown may occur in an arbitrary place in the high-voltage part of the device.
A source of this kind can be used as a demonstration generator for high voltage experiments. The high-voltage power supply was assembled with my own hands for the teacher, and why he asked me to assemble it, I can’t say, because he didn’t even really understand.
The high-voltage power supply is assembled on powerful field switches of the IRFZ44 series (standard multivibrator). The output power of the inverter can reach up to 50 watts, the output voltage is not more than 1200 volts. In fact, this is a universal high voltage generator, it can be used as a converter for low-power Tesla coils, for air ionizers, etc. High output power allows you to connect sufficiently powerful discharge lamps (neon tubes, etc.) to the inverter.
Transformer manufacturing
The transformer is the main and most important part in any power supply. All further operation of the device depends on the high-quality winding of the pulse transformer. In my case, a transformer with a W-shaped core was used from a computer PSU with a power of 200 watts. The transformer must be carefully disassembled and all factory windings removed, after which new ones must be wound.
The primary winding is wound with a double wire of 1 mm each core, the winding consists of 7 turns.
Unfortunately, the process of winding the transformer could not be filmed, since the inverter was assembled in the village, with only one soldering iron in hand.
After winding the primary winding, we wind the secondary. But first, the winding must be insulated with tape or insulating tape (personal experience shows that tape is one of the best solutions for this purpose). We lay 7-10 layers of insulation (in the case of adhesive tape) and wind the secondary winding. The winding is wound with a wire of 0.1-0.15 mm IN THE SAME DIRECTION as the primary one. The number of turns in the secondary winding is 600, every 70-90 turns the winding must be isolated to avoid interturn breakdowns.
After winding the transformer, it is necessary to phase the primary winding. We have 2 cores of the primary winding on each side of the transformer. First, remove the varnish from the wires, it is convenient to use sandpaper, a razor or a mounting knife. After that, the wires need to be tinned. Next, with a multimeter, we find the beginning and end of each winding. At the end, we need to connect the beginning of one winding to the end of the second, or vice versa - the end of one to the beginning of the other, in principle there is no difference.
Schema collection
Next, we assemble the scheme. The limiting resistors of the keys are not critical, their value can deviate in a wide range from 220 to 1000 ohms. The keys themselves must be installed on the heat sink(s), since the circuit is quite voracious and “eats” a considerable current, as a result of which the transistors overheat during operation.
The high voltage from the transformer is first rectified by a diode rectifier, then the voltage is applied to the film capacitor. In my case, a domestic-type capacitor of 1000 Volts 0.1 μF was used, although the rating is not critical, the main thing is to select capacitors with a permissible voltage of 1000 Volts or more, the capacity is at your discretion.
As a diode rectifier, I used FR107 diodes, these are pulse diodes with a reverse voltage of 1000 Volts and with a current of up to 1 Ampere. In total, I used 3 such diodes, but it is advisable to install high-voltage diodes such as KTs106 (with any letter) or, even better, KTs123B. Such diodes can be purchased at a radio parts store or removed from an old television multiplier (domestic).
Choke - significantly reduces heat dissipation on field keys. The throttle can be removed from a non-working computer power supply or wind it yourself. The winding is wound with a wire of 0.8 mm and consists of 12-15 turns.
Due to the minimum number of components used, it makes no sense to etch the PCB, so in my case, all the wiring was done on a breadboard.
The supply voltage range of the circuit is from 3 to 16 Volts, the best option is 6-7.2 Volts.
The high-voltage ignition module is used for self-defense and the manufacture of modern technology. Knowing the sequence of work, you can make such a device with your own hands. How to do this and where you can find finished products, this article will tell.
Description
The high voltage module is a block with 4 wires, 2 of which are required for power connection. As you can see, nothing complicated.
If you need a high-voltage module, you can purchase it from an online store or make it yourself. The finished device runs on AA lithium batteries with 3.6 to 6 volts at the input. The output can be 400 volts.
The generator has 4 wires. To check the quality of the purchase, you can take a 3.7 volt lithium-ion battery module. According to the parameters, a spark up to 2 cm should fly between the electrodes.
Such work must be done with particular care. Separate the high voltage module wires and connect them to the battery. When power is applied, a whistling sound effect is noted. A discharge will also occur, the length of which is 1.5-2 cm.
How it works
A demonstration of the operation of the high voltage converter module can be performed using a generator. This requires power from a 12-volt uninterruptible power supply and a 25-watt lamp. When the wires are connected, it burns with full heat.
Description of the manufacture of high-voltage generators
The ability to craft helps more than once in a lifetime. For example, good high-voltage generators are quite expensive. Plus, they're hard to get. But after all, a high-voltage module can be successfully made by hand. To do this, you need a stepper motor that can work fine in the generation mode.
A handle is attached directly to the stepper shaft, rotate it and charge the phone in field conditions. This charge can be made by hand in a few minutes.
Model improvements
There are many such inventions, but their power is not high enough. To charge the phone, you need at least 2 W at the output of such a motor for an old model of a mobile device and at least 5 W for a modern smartphone.
Where can I get a high voltage module with good power? Let's try to do it ourselves. We will select a convenient rotation handle for the stepper, connect all wire leads according to the diagram. The resulting DC outputs will go to the wattmeter and to the load, which is matched to this engine and to the speed according to the optimal parameters.
What power can be developed on a large stepper motor at a speed of 120 per minute? Let's start the experience. The wattmeter shows 0.8 W at a voltage of 6 volts and a current of 0.11-0.12 amperes. With faster rotation, the peak figure reaches 1 amp, but this is at very fast speeds.
Therefore, such a device requires improvement. You need a converter that increases the speed by 3-4 times so that you can successfully charge the phone in field conditions.
For this, a collector motor is used. You can make a belt drive to this engine to increase its speed by 3 times. You will get an installation with a pulley diameter that is 3 times larger than that installed on a stepper motor. Now such a device will rotate 3 times faster, which will allow reaching indicators of 2-2.2 watts. In this case, the voltage is 17 volts, the current is 0.12-0.13 amperes. Such power is already more significant. If the device is fixed on the table, turning the handle is quite simple.
The higher the rpm, the more useful power the alternator can put out.
Making a stun gun: preparation
Electroshock devices can be very powerful. The law allows the use of devices up to 3 watts, which are not capable of causing serious harm to health, but guarantee a rather strong electric shock and burn.
The device diagram is as follows:
- power supply;
- boost converter;
- high voltage voltage multiplier.
You can use a conventional lithium-ion battery of compact size, better - lithium iron phosphate. It has less capacitance for the same weight, and the nominal voltage is 3.2 volts versus 3.7 volts in the lithium-ion version.
Such a device has many advantages:
- With its own capacity of only 700 mA / h, this one is capable of delivering currents of 30-50 A.
- Has a service life of 10-15 years.
- Able to work at temperatures up to -30 degrees without loss of capacity and other negative consequences.
- Environmentally friendly, safe, does not swell or explode.
- Loses capacity much more slowly.
- Not so sensitive to the parameters of the charger, can be charged with high currents without overheating.
For the converter, you can use a ready-made model from China. Or make it with your own hands. The most important thing in such a device is a transformer. It can be taken from the standby source of a non-working computer power supply. It is desirable that it be of an elongated type, which will facilitate the winding process.
Assembling the device
The transformer must be disassembled, the core removed and heated with a blowtorch for 5-10 minutes. The structure of the glue will weaken, and it will be easier for the halves to separate.
There is a gap inside. The removal of the halves in the core is replaced by the stage of winding all the factory windings, leaving only the surface of the bare frame.
Rules for performing winding movements
The high-voltage module for the stun gun requires that the winding of the primary type of the transformer winding be performed. A wire length of 0.5 mm is folded twice. The optimal diameter indicators are from 0.4 to 0.7 mm. You will need to wind at least 8 turns and bring the second end of the wires out.
We isolate the wound winding with several layers of fluoroplast or transparent tape. A piece of stranded wire placed in thick insulation is soldered to a thin wire, the thickness of which is not more than 0.05 mm.
We isolate the places where soldering was performed using heat shrink. We bring out the wire and fix it with hot-melt adhesive so as not to accidentally break off during the winding process.
We wind the primary winding, 100-120 turns each, alternating it with several layers of insulation. By its principle, the winding is simple: a row - from left to right, the second - from right to left, with insulation between them. So we repeat from 10 to 12 times.
After the winding is completed, the wires are cut off, stranded high-voltage wires and heat shrink are soldered to them. Everything is fixed with several layers of transparent tape and the transformer is assembled.
If you don’t want to wind the coils for so long, you can purchase ready-made modules in Chinese online stores at a very affordable cost or make a high-voltage module with your own hands.
Device test
The next part of the voltage multiplier is high voltage diodes and capacitors, which can be taken from a computer power supply. Diodes are also needed high-voltage type. Their voltage should be from 4 kW. These items can also be purchased online.
The case can be a box from a flashlight or a player, but it must be made of a dielectric material: plastic, bakelite, fiberglass.
A multiplier with a high-voltage converter is recommended to be filled with epoxy resin, melted wax or hot melt adhesive. The latter can severely deform the case if not placed in a container of cold water.
Electrodes can be taken from a regular plug. The shocker is equipped with a safety switch to protect against accidental activation. To activate the device, it is removed from the fuse. The indicator LED lights up, then press the button.
The high-voltage module - voltage converter successfully shows operability in a stun gun. The charger is built on the basis of a microcircuit, where a voltage of 5 volts is applied to the input of the module, and 3.6 volts at the output. Such charging allows you to power the device from any USB port.
Using solder, you can make protective arresters that limit the length of the arc for the safe operation of a high-voltage converter. The shocker is ready.
Making a high-voltage module from an energy-saving lamp
And such a device can be easily made with your own hands. But where can I get a high-voltage module? You can use a regular incandescent light bulb. At first we wind no more than 80 skeins. The second layer is 400-600 turns. Between each layer, do not forget to make insulation from adhesive tape.
To test the device, we connect it through a limiting light bulb of 35 watts. It turned out to be a fairly powerful high-voltage ignition module.
Product Applications
Where is the high voltage module used? Such devices are widely used for the manufacture of modern equipment and can serve as a laboratory high-voltage generator. With the help of such a device, you can build a homemade shocker, a system for igniting fuel in a nozzle or engine.
It can be used to provide power to a portable Geiger counter, a dosimeter, and other types of equipment that require high voltage ratings with a power supply that has a low power.
The device of the microcircuit is turned on in the “Multivibrator” mode with the frequency indicators adjusted depending on what the characteristics of the transformer are. A high level, which indicates the output signal of current flowing through the resistor and the primary winding of the transformer, is capable of charging a 10 microfarad capacitor. In order to make an electric shock, you will need a transformer device, the multiplication factor of which is 1 to 400 and higher.
To obtain a spark of 1 mm, voltage indicators of about 1000 V are needed. Knowing the sequence of work, you can make such a device with your own hands.
A very simple 50 kV converter, which essentially has three elements in its composition. All components are available and, if desired, are easy to find.
The high voltage converter can be used for various high electricity experiments, as an ionizer, insulation integrity tester, etc.
What will be required:
- Line scan transformer from any TV with kinescope.
- Field effect transistor IRFZ44 -
- Resistor 150 Ohm (1/2 W).
High voltage converter circuit
We will assemble everything on a breadboard without soldering. I will just show the work, and if you like it, you can transfer it to a more reliable board and solder all the elements.Connecting a transistor, if anyone does not know.
We need to wind the transformer winding. The high-voltage winding will be native. We take a regular, not quite thin wire and wind it with 14-16 turns. We will make a tap in the middle of the winding.
Now we connect everything to our scheme. Power is connected last. Be careful as you work with high voltage. Keep your hands away from the switched on transformer.
Make a distance of about 1 cm between the high voltage output of the transformer and the leads on the other side. And then just feed it. If sparks, then the generator is excited and everything is working fine.
If you will operate for a long time, it is advisable to install the transistor on the radiator. And if the spark is small, then you can increase the voltage to 10 or to 15 V.
Video of work
Many of us at least once in our lives have seen photos of high-voltage generators on the Internet or in real life, or made them ourselves. Many circuits presented on the Internet are quite powerful, their output voltage is from 50 to 100 kilovolts. Power, as well as voltage, is also quite high. But their food is the main problem. The voltage source must be suitable for the power generator, must be able to give a long-term high current.
There are 2 power supply options for HV generators:
1) battery,
2) mains power supply.
The first option allows you to start the device far "from the outlet". However, as noted earlier, the device will consume a lot of power and therefore the battery must provide this power (if you want the generator to work "at 100"). Batteries of such power are quite large and you can’t call an autonomous device with such a battery. If you supply power from a mains source, then you don’t have to talk about autonomy either, since the generator literally “you can’t tear it off the outlet”.
My device is quite autonomous, as it consumes not so much from the built-in battery, however, due to low consumption, the power is also not high - about 10-15W. But you can get an arc from a transformer, the voltage is about 1 kilovolt. From the voltage multiplier up - 10-15 kV.
Closer to design...
Since this generator was not planned for serious purposes, I placed all its “insides” in a cardboard box (no matter how ridiculous it may sound, but it is. I ask you not to judge my design strictly, since I am not a specialist in high-voltage technology L). My device has 2 Li-ion batteries with a capacity of 2200 mAh. They are charged using an 8 volt linear regulator: L7808. It is also in the body. There are also two chargers: from the mains (12 V, 1250 mAh) and from the car's cigarette lighter.
The high voltage generation circuit itself consists of several parts:
1) input voltage filter,
2) a master oscillator built on a multivibrator,
3) power transistors,
4) a high-voltage step-up transformer (I want to note that the core should not have a gap, the presence of a gap leads to an increase in current consumption and, as a result, failure of power transistors).
You can also connect a "symmetrical" voltage multiplier or ... a fluorescent lamp to the high-voltage output, then the HV generator turns into a flashlight. Although, in fact, this device was originally planned to be made as a flashlight. The converter circuit is made on a breadboard, if you wish, you can create a printed circuit board. The maximum consumption of the circuit is up to 2-3 Amperes, this should be taken into account when choosing switches. The cost of the device depends on where you took the components. I found most of the complete set in my box or in a box for storing radio components. I only had to buy a linear stabilizer L7808, IVLM1-1/7 (actually I inserted it here for the sake of interest, but I bought it out of curiosity J), I also had to buy an electronic transformer for halogen lamps (I took only a transformer from it). The wire for winding the secondary (step-up, high-voltage) winding was taken from a long-burned line transformer (TVS110PTs), and I advise you to do the same. So the wire in line transformers is high-voltage and there should be no problems with insulation breakdown. We seem to have figured out the theory - now let's move on to practice ...
Appearance…
Fig.1 - view of the control panel:
1) health indicators
2) Charging voltage presence indicator
3) input from 8 to 25 volts (for charging)
4) button to turn on the battery charge (turn on only when the charger is connected)
5) battery switch (upper position - main, lower - spare)
6) HV generator switch
7)high voltage output
There are 3 health indicators on the front panel. There are so many of them here, because the seven-segment indicator is my initial (the first letter of my name is lit on it: “A” J), the LEDs above the switch and the switch were originally planned to be additional indicators of the battery charge, but there was a problem with the display circuit, and the holes in hull have already been made. I had to put LEDs, but already as just indicators, so as not to spoil the appearance.
Fig. 2 - view of the voltmeter and indicator:
8) voltmeter - shows the voltage on the battery
9) indicator - IVLM1-1/7
10) fuse (against accidental activation)
I installed the vacuum fluorescent indicator for the sake of interest, since this is my first indicator of this type.
Fig. 3 - internal view:
11)body
12) batteries (12.1-main, 12.2-spare)
13) linear stabilizer 7808 (for charging batteries)
14)converter board
15) heat sink with field effect transistor KP813A2
Here, I think there is nothing to explain.
Fig. 4 - chargers:
16) from a network of 220 v. (12 V., 1250 mA.)
17) from car cigarette lighter
Fig.5 - loads for AVVG:
18)9 WFluorescent Lamp
19) "symmetrical" voltage multiplier
Fig.6 - schematic diagram:
USB1 - standard outputUSB
BAT1, 2 – Li- ion7.4 in. 2200 mAh (18650 X 2)
R1, 2, 3, 4 - 820 Ohm
R5 - 100 kOhm
R6, 7 - 8.2 ohm
R8 - 150 Ohm
R9, 12 - 510 Ohm
R10, 11 - 1 kΩ
L1 - core from a choke from an energy-saving lamp, 10 turns of 1.5 mm.
C1 - 470uF 16V
C2, 3 - 1000 uF 16 in.
C4, 5 - 47 nF 250 V.
C6 - 3.2 nF 1.25 kV
C7 - 300 pF 1.6 Kv.
C8 - 470 pF 3 Kv.
C9, 10 - 6.3 nF
C11, 12, 13, 14 - 2200 pF 5 kv.
D1 - red LED
D2 - AL307EM
D3 - ALS307VM
VD1, 2, 3, 4 - KTs106G
HL1 - ZLS338B1
HL2 – NE2
HL3 - IVLM1-1/7
HL4 - LDS 9W
IC1 – L7808
SB1 - button 1A
SA1 - switch 3A (ON- OFFwith neon lamp)
SA2 - switch 6A (ON- ON)
SA3 - switch 1A (ON- OFF)
PV1 -M2003-1
T1 - step-up transformer:
BB winding: 372 turns PEV-2 0.14mm. R=38.6ohm
Primary winding: 2 to 7 turns of PEV-… 1mm. R=0.4ohm
VT1 - KT819VM
VT2 - KP813A2
VT3, 4 - KT817B
Total number of components: 53.
Without which this circuit MAY work, in fact there are many without: IC1, R1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 8, C1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8,
Explanations for the scheme:
The minus is common, it goes from the USB input to the converter board. The pluses from the batteries go to the switch, from it there is already one output to the switch (SA1), and from it to the converter. Also, the plus goes to the voltmeter (PV1), through the resistor to the indicator cathode and to the anodes of the LEDs (a separate resistor for each LED). Charging is carried out after a voltage of 8 to 25 volts is applied to the USB input, and also after pressing the button (SB1), the LED (D1) lights up after the voltage for charging is applied (you can control the charging process using a PV1 voltmeter).
Switching between the main and spare batteries is carried out using the switch (SA1), then the power plus goes to the switch (SA2) (through the SA3 switch) of the HV generator, the neon lamp (HL2) is inside the switch. Further, the power outputs go to the block of capacitors and the master oscillator, built on a multivibrator (VT3, 4. C9, 10. R9, 10, 11, 12), the KT817B transistors can be replaced with any other analogues, from which the pulses go to the base and gate of the transistors (VT1, VT2), transistors can use less or more powerful counterparts. Field and bipolar transistors are used here, this is done in order to reduce consumption. After the transformer, high voltage is supplied to the group of anode segments of the vacuum luminescent indicator, and then to the BB output.
Consumption (like a flashlight): in 1 minute, the circuit discharges the battery by 0.04 V. (40 millivolts.). If the generator runs for 25 minutes, then it will be discharged by 1 volt (25 * 0.04).