How to install a padlock on a wooden door. How to insert a lock into a door How to install a padlock
It can be as reliable as a good mortise - provided that its cylinder mechanism is embedded in the door leaf. It's easy to do it yourself.
Necessary tools and materials:
- overhead cylinder lock
- ruler
- drill
- hacksaw
- chisel
Process:
1. Using a ruler, mark one third of the height from the top on both sides of the door and drill a guide through hole. If a template is included with the lock, use it to mark the center of the hole.
2. We drill a hole for the cylinder with a chisel drill of the same diameter as the cylinder. In order not to damage the surface of the door, we do it from two sides: as soon as the tip of the drill appears from the opposite side, we remove the drill, turn the door over and finish the job.
3. On the front side of the door, insert the cylinder and the finger bracket (or fixing ring) into the hole. Pressing the mounting plate into place, we check: the connecting rod of the cylinder should protrude 12 mm beyond it. Holding the rod with an adjustable wrench, saw off the excess with a hacksaw.
4. Insert the cylinder with the locking ring or finger bracket into place. We put the mounting plate on the rod and screw it to the cylinder with long screws, making sure that the front edge of the plate is flush with the edge of the door. We drill holes and attach the plate.
5. By pressing the button on the lock body, release the latch and install the lock on the mounting plate, aligning the connecting rod with the slot in the rear side of the lock body. We screw the case to the plate with small screws.
6. Use the button to move the valve to the “closed” position, firmly press the door and mark the position of the top and bottom of the valve tongue on the door frame. Having applied the plate of the locking body according to the marks, we outline its contour with a knife.
7. Holding the chisel at a right angle to the surface (the bevel of the blade is turned inward) and tapping it with a mallet, we will go through the outlined outline. Having made notches inside the contour, we will select wood to the depth of the edge of the plate of the locking body. When choosing the last layer, hold the chisel with the bevel of the blade down.
8. We install the plate of the locking body into the cutout. We close the door and check if the latch of the lock enters the locking case. Deepen the cut if necessary.
9. We drill pilot holes and attach the locking body. The lock is securely installed.
To date, the market offers various types of overhead locks, ranging from the simplest latch to overhead cylinder.
In the event that the cylinder mechanism crashes into the door leaf, then such an invoice will be no less reliable than a high-quality mortise one. The quality of the invoice directly depends on the number of pins. If there are at least five in them, then such a lock will rightfully be considered reliable. In addition, all invoices have a stopper and a fixing shutter.
The reliability of fastening the lock to the door frame directly determines its quality. During installation, the lock and its latch are located on the door leaf. In order to increase reliability, the screws with which it is attached must be chosen longer than those that come with the kit, while the diameter of the fasteners must be identical to the standard ones.
Almost all cylinder rim locks are suitable for doors of various sizes. Before installing a padlock, you should check the quality and strength of the door. Otherwise, it can be knocked out.
At the initial stage of installation of the overhead lock, you need to determine its location. If the lock is supplied with instructions, you should use it. As for the height, one third of the height of the door, starting from the bottom, is considered the most optimal. The marked place must be drilled with a chisel-shaped drill. It should be the same diameter as the cylinder. This step must be taken with care so as not to damage the door.
Having received a hole, it is necessary to insert a cylinder and a ring from the front side, which will fix it. Then you need to measure the desired length of the rod. The optimal protrusion outside the interior doors is 12 mm on each side. Excess must be cut off with a hacksaw. Then you need to put a mounting plate on the cylinder and fix it on the surface of the door. The front edge of the plate must be flush with the edge of the door.
At the next stage, you need to fix the lock itself on the plate by pulling out the rod. On the rod you need to put on the back side of the castle, thereby determining its location. At this point, you need to secure it tightly with long screws.
Having determined the position of the locking body using a chisel, it is necessary to cut a groove according to these dimensions. Its depth is determined by the thickness of the locking plate. Then you should firmly fix it.
It must be remembered that the reliability of such a lock is primarily determined by the quality of its installation. Interior doors are usually not equipped with locks, but if necessary, a lock can be installed on them. Basically, internal locks are inserted into the door, they are less visible and they look more aesthetically pleasing. The choice is yours!
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Not all front doors are now made of metal; many owners still prefer wood. Replacing door locks on wooden doors is somewhat easier than, but there are still certain subtleties. Next, we will tell you in detail how to install or change mortise and overhead locks on wooden entrance doors with your own hands.
Embedding or replacing the lock with your own hands is quite realistic.
Replacing the lock on the front door is not tricky, especially if this door is wooden, but before you change the lock, you still need to choose it. There are 3 types of locks on the door: hinged, mortise and overhead.
- Hinged structures are the easiest option, the reliability of padlocks leaves much to be desired, they are only suitable for installation on a country shed for garden tools. Changing locks of this kind is done in a few minutes, you just need to screw a couple of canopies;
- Mortise locks in an apartment or a private house are installed everywhere. There are many varieties of such mechanisms - cylinder, cruciform, disk, pin, lever and others, you can learn more about all types. Replacing the lock on the front door is much more difficult here, but I am glad that the installation technology is the same everywhere;
- Overhead structures are considered less reliable than mortise ones, but this is a moot point. But replacing the door lock or installing a new one is quite simple here. On wooden doors, experts recommend installing 2 types of locks at once - overhead and mortise.
The variety of door locks is impressive.
Technology for installing locks on wooden doors
We have dealt with the types of front door locks in general terms, now let's talk about how to change the door lock in practice. Let's start with the most difficult option, namely: how to change an ordinary lock to a mortise one.
Often the lock is changed because it is jammed, and jammed in the closed state. Opening a jammed lock without a key and not ruining an expensive door leaf is quite realistic, and all these methods are outlined.
Mortise lock installation
Naturally, before replacing the lock, you need to pick up a tool, expensive devices are not needed here:
- An electric drill with a set of pen drills on wood;
- Hammer;
- A pair of chisels, with a narrow and wide sting;
- Square;
- Roulette;
- Pencil;
- Screwdriver or screwdriver.
Inserting or replacing the front door lock begins with markings on the door leaf. We need to draw a central axial vertical, and also mark the beginning, center and end of the mechanism. According to the rules, mortise locks should be installed at a height of 1 m from the bottom edge of the web, but this is more of a recommendation than a clear indication.
Marking is the first stage of lock insertion.
The niche for the door lock must be cut a couple of millimeters larger than the mechanism itself, since the lock must enter freely into it. We select the pen drill according to the thickness of the lock, and in order not to drill too deep a hole on the drill itself, you need to put a mark.
On a pen drill, you need to put a mark on the depth of the installation of the lock.
Now along the center line we need to drill as many holes as possible. These holes should go one on top of the other, usually 2 - 3 mm recede from the edge of the extreme hole and the next one is drilled.
It’s not worth it to immediately go through the drill to the full depth, because an inexperienced master can start the drill at an angle and then it will be much harder to correct the mistake. Therefore, you go deep in stages, approximately 10 - 15 mm at a time.
Gradually select a niche with a pen drill.
The lock box itself is rectangular, respectively, and the niche for it needs to be made similar. To align the walls of the niche, we take a sharp chisel and hollow out all that is superfluous, bringing the shape to the ideal.
To quickly and efficiently change the lock in the door, you need a well-sharpened tool.
niche for mortise door lock you need to gouge very carefully so as not to make it larger than necessary, because if you choose a couple of extra millimeters and the lock plate will not be able to completely close the hole.
With a chisel and a hammer, we bring the shape of the niche to the ideal.
When you have made sure that the niche completely fits under the lock, it's time to mark the lock bar. The first marks are placed under the mounting screws. After that, you need to drill holes for the screws with a thin drill and screw the screws themselves.
We try on the lock and mark the canvas for fastening the lock bar.
The lock bar should be flush with the end of the door leaf, so we need to cut a small recess under it. To do this, take a sharp knife and cut the veneer around the perimeter of the plank by about a couple of millimeters deep.
Trimming the door veneer around the perimeter of the lock strip.
We clean the place under the castle bar.
Now pull out the lock and apply it on top of the door leaf, so it will be easier for you to mark the holes for the handle and keyhole. And you need to mark on both sides.
Keyhole marking.
The holes for the handle and the keyhole are drilled with the same pen drill, but you need to drill on each side of the door leaf separately, and not through one common hole through, otherwise you will have ugly chips when the drill exits.
Mounting handle and keyhole with decorative overlays.
Now you can proceed with the installation of the striker under the lock. Its installation is not much different from your previous actions. In the same way, mark the entry point for the locking tongues and cut a niche for them to the depth of the entry of these tongues.
We cut the striker into the door frame.
Rim lock installation
To change the lock on the front door on the bill of lading, no new tool is needed, the same set that we talked about above is used.
The overhead lock is placed higher than the mortise, according to the rules, it should be at a level of 1.5 m from the bottom edge of the door leaf, but again, this is only a recommendation.
Padlock marking.
Now almost all such locks are sold with a paper template for installation. You need to take this template, attach it to the door, and then use an awl to mark 4 fixation points and a center point for installing the locking lock cylinder.
In order for the screws to go in smoothly and without distortions, we need to pre-drill holes for them with a thin drill. Usually the cross section of a standard self-tapping screw is 3.5 mm, which means that the drill should be taken a little less than 2 - 2.5 mm. Holes for self-tapping screws are made deaf, and the central hole for the lock cylinder must be drilled through.
Now we select a pen drill according to the diameter of the lock cylinder and drill a through central hole. To make the hole neat, without jagged edges, you first need to drill it to half the thickness of the door leaf on one side, and then do the same on the other side.
In overhead locks, there is also a side locking bar, which is attached to the end of the door leaf. In order for this bar to fit flush, we need to mark and cut a groove for it. After that, we apply the lock, drill preliminary holes and fasten the lock with self-tapping screws at 2 points from the end and along the front perimeter at 4 points.
Insert of a lock level of the laid on lock.
Now we need to fix the counterpart on the door frame. To do this, we close the lock and, having attached the counterpart, mark with an awl the attachment points for self-tapping screws.
After marking, we will need to drill preparatory holes for self-tapping screws in a wooden box and fasten the counterpart with self-tapping screws at 4 points.
Fastening of the reciprocal part of the lock with self-tapping screws.
Replacing front door locks always ends with the installation of decorative or anti-vandal pads, as a rule, these pads are mounted on self-tapping screws.
Decorative overlay under a lock cylinder.
Conclusion
As you can see, replacing door locks on wooden doors is not such a difficult job. The video in this article shows the replacement of front door locks in detail.
Entrance wooden doors among the people are still popular.
People who own a country or country house have to do various things on their own - whether it is installing door locks or. Everyone knows that maintaining a house in a village is troublesome and costly. But, nevertheless, every year more and more people buy housing outside the city, as the pleasure of relaxing in the countryside outweighs all the inconveniences associated with it.
What is the singing of birds, fresh air, the fragrant smell of freshly cut grass before the fact that the water is in the well, and the bathroom is outside? Nothing. Moreover, over time, you can equip everything and make housing comfortable. After all, there is now plenty of information about suburban construction, if you want - buy a book, if you want - look on the Internet. For example, after reading this article, you can learn how to install a door lock with your own hands.
On, in addition to the house, there are usually many different buildings. And almost everyone has doors. To protect the house and buildings from uninvited guests, especially if you visit the dacha on short visits, you need to install a door lock on each door. You can, of course, call the master, or you can save a decent amount and please yourself with a delicious treat. Here, for example, is excellent. Moreover, installing door locks with your own hands is a simple matter, accessible even to a novice summer resident. Today we will tell you how to install mortise and overhead locks in wooden doors.
INSTALLATION OF THE MORTISE DOOR LOCK
From the tools we need a drill, a pen for drilling, a Phillips screwdriver. We will install a mortise door lock with a regular width of 5 cm. We will open the package with the lock - in addition to the lock, keys, locking plate, decorative overlays and screws, there may be a template in it. If there is one, well, let's attach it to the door and mark the places of drilling on it and on the jamb. If it is not there, it's okay, the manufacturers just thought that installing a door lock was a simple matter and decided to save on paper.
We choose a place on the door where we will install the lock. Usually this distance is 1 meter from the floor. Try to visually determine the height so that it is convenient for you to open the door with a key. Go to the door, lower your hand down and touch it, add 15 cm upwards to this point - this will be the place to install the door lock.
We measure the width of the lock to be inserted, select the pen for drilling 2 mm wider than this size. Determine the drilling point by dividing the width of the door in half, lean the lock against it and circle it with a marker. With a drill and a pen, we drill a recess in such a way that the lock can easily enter it. When working, the drill must be held strictly so as not to accidentally drill through the door. Having drilled a notch, insert a lock into it and circle it with a pencil along the contour. Let's take a chisel and choose a few millimeters so that it is flush with the end of the door and nothing interferes with its opening or closing.
Now you need in the door leaf for the key. Let's do it with the same pen. Before that, let's take the size from the lock and transfer it to the door to determine the place where the key will be inserted. Remove light roughness with a file. Let's make sure that the key is easily inserted into the lock. After that, we will check the lock for operability, it should open and close without any effort. If everything suits us, we fasten decorative metal plates on both sides with screws, if not, we look for the cause and eliminate it. It remains to fix the lock in the door by tightening two self-tapping screws.
At the end, we will install a locking plate in the jamb. To do this, close the door, open the lock with the key so that the bolt rests against the door frame, mark with a pencil the place of their contact. Take a plate, circle it around the perimeter. With a chisel, we will select excess wood so that when the lock is closed, the bolt goes into the jamb to the full depth and so that the locking plate is flush with the jamb. We fix it on 1 screw and check the operation of the lock. We close it by 2 turns, while nothing should interfere with the bolt of the lock. Now we fix the plate with another screw. This completes the installation of the mortise door lock.
RIM LOCK INSTALLATION
A rim lock is even easier to insert than a mortise lock. It is fixed directly on the door leaf. In the same way, we will determine the place for its installation. First, drill a hole in the canvas for the lock cylinder. We need a drill and a metal crown of the desired diameter. We drilled holes for installation with such crowns. We install the ring, the cylinder of the patch lock and fix it on the back side with a round plate using two screws. Insert the key and turn it, it should spin easily. On the reverse side of the cylinder there is a special metal bar that is inserted into the padlock and opens and closes the bolt of the lock. There are notches on this bar, they are made so that you can adjust the length of the bar and install the device on doors of different thicknesses. In our case, the bar for one notch had to be shortened with pliers.
We attach the lock to the canvas and fasten it with four screws. Let's turn the key again and make sure that it works correctly. Now we will screw the locking bar onto the jamb. To do this, close the door, use the key to extend the latch of the lock and attach a striker to it. Mark the attachment points with a pencil and fasten it to the box with four screws. We try to close-open the lock with a key. The padlock installation has been successfully completed.
INCREASING THE SAFETY OF THE COUNTRY HOUSE
Country houses are closed not only with mortise or overhead locks with numerous secrets, ordinary padlocks are still common in rural areas. They are hung on locks, consisting of two parts: one part is fixed on the door, and the second on the jamb. Basically, rural residents fix constipation carelessly: they are attached either to screws or nails. The second part of the constipation, which is attached to the jamb, is popularly called a test (according to Ushakov's explanatory dictionary, this is a metal shackle for hanging a lock), they are generally made from a nail: they bend it in the form of a bracket and hammer it into the jamb with a hammer. Then they hang a large barn lock on this lock and think that their house is reliably protected from thieves.
In fact, the size of the castle in this case does not play any role. To get into the house - you don’t need to break it, just unscrew the screws or pull out the breakdown. Stealing in holiday villages or villages is mainly comrades who drink heavily and do not work anywhere. They have one goal - to steal food so as not to die of hunger, but to sell it for a penny, which summer residents leave in the house. As a rule, they do not shine with intelligence and climb where it is worse protected. Therefore, such "guests" need to create maximum problems for penetration into the home. If it is not possible to put the dacha on guard, install bars on the windows and strengthen the house with an iron door, then at least it is necessary to replace the screws on the locks. All you need to buy in the store are bolts with round heads, enlarged washers and nuts.
We will take out a sample from a bent nail from the jamb and hand it over to the metal collection point. Instead, we will install a constipation bought in a store. We drill holes in it for the diameter of the bolt, drill through the jamb and insert the bolts. On the back of the jamb, put washers on them and tighten the nuts. We will do the same with the second part of the lock, which is attached to the door leaf. Let's take the bolts shorter so that they do not stick out from the back side. Thus, cracking this constipation can be an overwhelming task for the local "gentlemen of fortune." They suffer, and leave with nothing. Protect your home by any legal means, because the moral injury received from theft can be much stronger than material losses.
There are many types of rim locks, from a simple latch to a cylinder rim lock. If the cylinder mechanism of such a lock is embedded in the door leaf, then the overhead lock can be as reliable as a good mortise lock. The strength of a padlock is determined by the number of pins - a secure lock must have at least five pins. All overhead locks have a stopper for fixing constipation.
Unlike a conventional rim lock, a cylinder lock has a cylinder mechanism that can be opened with a key, embedded in the door, which increases the reliability of the lock.
The effectiveness of the overhead lock depends on the reliability of its fastening to the door and especially to the door frame. The lock and its latch are located on the door leaf and are held in place only with screws. To increase security, use longer screws than those supplied with the lock, but of the same diameter.
Standard cylinder rim lock fits all door sizes. The tongue of a rim lock with a mortise cylinder mechanism comes out of the locking body only when the key is turned. Before installing any lock, check the reliability of the door and frame, otherwise the door may simply be knocked out.
Step 1
Mark on both sides of the door one third of the height from the top. If a template is included with the lock, use it to mark the center of the cylinder hole, or locate it according to the manufacturer's instructions using a combination square. Drill a pilot hole through the center.
Step 2
Drill the hole with a chisel drill of the same diameter as the cylinder. In order not to damage the surface of the door, remove the drill as soon as its tip appears on the opposite side. Flip the door and finish the job.
Step 3
From the front side of the door, insert the cylinder and the pin bracket or fixing ring into the hole. Press the mounting plate into place. The connecting rod of the cylinder must protrude 12 mm beyond the mounting plate. Mark the required length and, holding the rod tightly with an adjustable wrench, saw off the excess with a hacksaw.
Step 4
Replace the cylinder with the retaining ring or pin brace. Put the mounting plate on the rod and screw the plate to the cylinder with long screws. When tightening the screws, position the plate so that its front edge is flush with the edge of the door. Drill holes and attach the plate.
Step 5
By pressing the button on the lock body, release the latch and install the lock on the mounting plate, aligning the connecting rod with the slot in the back of the lock body. Place the housing on the plate and screw it to the mounting plate with small screws.
Step 6
Use the button to move the latch to the “closed” position, press the door against the frame and mark the position of the top and bottom of the latch tongue on the box. Place the locking plate on the marks and mark its contour with a knife.
Step 7
Holding the chisel at a right angle to the surface (the bevel of the blade is turned inward) and tapping it with a mallet, go along the outlined outline. Make notches inside the contour and select the wood to the depth of the flange of the locking plate. Choose the last layer by holding the chisel with the bevel of the blade down.
Step 8
Install the locking housing plate into the cutout. Close the door to check if the latch of the lock fits into the lock case. Deepen the cut if necessary. Drill pilot holes and attach the lock housing.