Repair of LED lamps with examples. We assemble an LED lamp at home How to assemble an LED lamp
In this article, we will look at examples of making homemade LED lamps for various needs.
1. The simplest lamp for domestic needs.
To begin with, it is worth deciding which LEDs are best to use. If you choose between powerful and low-power - the first is better in terms of labor intensity. To replace one powerful 1W LED, you need 15-20 low power 5mm or smd LEDs. Accordingly, soldering with low-power is much larger. Let's focus on the powerful ones. Usually they are divided into two types - output and surface mount. To make life easier, it is better to use output. The power of the LED is better to choose no more than 1 watt.
We also need a current driver so that the LEDs receive the necessary voltage and serve for a long time.
In addition, a heatsink is needed for long-term operation of the LED (especially for a powerful one). Aluminum is best suited for its manufacture. For each one-watt LED, you need a piece of aluminum 50x50 mm, about 1 mm thick. The piece may be smaller if bent. If you take a piece of 25x25 mm and 5 mm thick, you will not get the desired effect. To dissipate heat, you need area, not thickness.
Consider the model of the simplest lamp. We will need: three 1 W LEDs, a 3x1 W driver, double-sided heat-conducting tape, a radiator (for example, a piece of a U-shaped profile 1 mm thick and 6-8 cm long).
Thermally conductive tape can conduct heat. Therefore, the usual double-sided tape from will not work. Cut off a strip of adhesive tape 6-7 mm wide.
We degrease the radiator and the bottoms of the LEDs. It is undesirable to use acetone for this - the plastic lens of the LED may become cloudy.
Stick tape on the radiator. Then we mark the radiator to install the LEDs evenly.
We install the LEDs on the adhesive tape. At the same time, we observe the polarity - all LEDs must be deployed in the same way so that the "plus" of one LED looks at the "minus" of the neighboring one. Lightly press them for better contact. After that, we apply tin to the leads of the LEDs to facilitate further soldering. If you have a fear that the adhesive tape may burn out, just lift the LED leads so that they do not touch the adhesive tape. In this case, the LED housing must be held with a finger so that it does not come off the adhesive tape. However, you can bend the conclusions in advance.
We connect the LEDs together. For this, a vein from any stranded wire is quite enough.
Solder the driver.
The simplest lamp model is ready. Now you can insert it into any suitable case. Of course, you can make a more powerful lamp, only you need more diodes and a more powerful driver, but the principle remains the same. This technique is suitable both for the manufacture of a single lamp, and for small-scale production.
2. Chandelier based on LEDs.
We will need:
1. Base from a burned-out energy-saving lamp.
2. Two grips (to connect to the LED);
3. Powerful ten-watt LED, color of your choice;
4. Two small screws;
5. One ten watt LED driver;
6. Thermal paste;
7. Radiator;
8. Heat shrink tube (or insulating tape);
9. wires with a cross section of 2 mm.
First you need to disassemble the old or burned out energy-saving lamp. It is important to be careful not to damage the glass bulb. Otherwise, mercury gas, which is very harmful to health, will come out of it.
We only need a part of the body with a plinth. We cut off the leads from the board going to the base and solder our own leads from the LED driver, insulating them with heat shrink tubes.
With a soldering iron, we will make a couple of holes for the wire, which will hold the entire structure.
Next, use the terminals, crimp, connect to the LED, observing the polarity. We check. It is not recommended to look at the on LED. The intensity of the light is very strong and can harm your eyes. If everything works, we assemble the lamp into a single whole.
The LED is very bright and casts harsh shadows. You can make the light smoother and softer by using a DIY diffuser. Many different materials can be used as a diffuser. The simplest one is to cut the bottom out of a two-liter plastic bottle, sand it on all sides to give full opacity to direct light. We make four holes and attach it to the radiator with wire.
3. Home LED lamp.
We use Cree MX6 Q5 LEDs with a power of 3 W and a light output of 278 lm as a light source. The LED will be placed on a 5x5 cm heatsink removed from the processor of an old motherboard.
For simplicity, we will use a switching source along with an electronic adapter, which will provide the necessary voltage and current to power the LEDs. For this purpose, in our case, a charger of a non-working mobile phone was chosen, which, according to the manufacturer, has an output voltage of 5 V and a current of 420 mA.
To protect against external influences, the entire electronic part will be placed in a socket from an old lamp.
According to the manufacturer's instructions, the Cree MX6 Q5 LEDs can operate at a maximum current of 1A at a voltage of 4.1V. Logically, for normal operation, we need a 1 ohm resistor to reduce the voltage by about one volt of the five that the charger gives to get the desired 4.1 V, and this is only if the charging produces a maximum current of 1 A. However, as it turned out later, a charger with a design current limit of 0.6 A works without problems. Testing in the same way charging for other mobile phones, it was found that they all have a current supply limit that is 20-50% higher than that indicated by the manufacturer. The meaning of this is that any manufacturer will strive to develop a power supply so that it does not overheat even if the powered device is damaged or a short circuit occurs, and the easiest way in this case is to limit the current.
Thus, we have a direct current source limited to 0.6 A, powered by alternating current 230 V, made by a factory method and having a small size. At the same time, during operation, it only slightly heats up.
Let's move on to assembly. First you need to open the power supply in order to remove the parts that will be inserted into the body of the new lamp. Since most power supplies are connected by soldering, we open the unit with a hacksaw.
In order to fix the board in the lamp housing, in our case, sanitary silicone was used. Silicone was chosen for its resistance to high temperatures.
Before closing the lamp, we fasten the radiator to the cover (using bolts), to which the LED was attached.
The lamp is ready. The power consumption is just under 2.5 W and the luminous flux is 190 lm, which is ideal for an economical, durable and strong table lamp.
4. Lamp in the corridor.
To illuminate the hallway with LED lights, we used two Cree MX6 Q5 LEDs, each with a power of 3 W and a light output of 278 lumens, and powered by an old power supply from a Samsung mobile phone. And although the manufacturer in the specification indicates a current strength of 0.7 A, after measurements it was found that it is limited to 0.75 A.
The scheme for manufacturing the base of the lamp is similar to the previous version. The entire external structure is assembled using textile Velcro, glue and plastic washers from motherboards.
The total consumption of this design is about 6 W with a luminous flux of 460 lm.
5. Light fixture in the bathroom.
For the bathroom, I used a Cree XM-L T6 LED powered by two LG phone chargers.
Each of the chargers claims to deliver 0.9A, but I found that the actual current is 1A. Both power supplies are connected in parallel to produce 2A.
With such indicators, the LED lamp will produce a luminous flux of 700 lm with a power consumption of 6 watts.
6. Lamp for the kitchen.
If for the hallway and bathroom there was no need to provide a certain minimum of illumination, then in the kitchen this is not the case. Therefore, it was decided to use for the kitchen not one, but two series-connected Cree XM-L T6 LEDs, each of which has a maximum power consumption of 9 W and a maximum luminous flux of 910 lumens.
For effective cooling, in our case, we used a heatsink removed from Slot 1 of a Pentium 3 processor, to which both LEDs were attached using ArcticAlumina hot melt adhesive. Although Cree XM-L T6 LEDs can draw up to 3A, the manufacturer recommends using 2A for reliable operation, at which they produce a luminous flux of about 700 lumens. A generating 12V at a current of 1.5A was used as a power source. After testing it with resistors, it was found that the current was limited to a value of 1.8 A, which is very close to the desired value of 2 A.
To protect the heatsink and two LEDs, we used two plastic washers from the motherboard and two neodymium magnets removed from a damaged DVD drive, securing them with superglue and textile Velcro.
I expected this LED fixture to produce 1200 lumens, which is comparable to the light output of a replacement 23W fluorescent lamp, but it was found that the actual light emitted is even more intense, with a power consumption of about 12W - almost half compared to the old light bulb .
7. Office lamp
We will need:
1. LED rulers 4 pcs (on powerful American CREE diodes)
2. Suitable driver (power supply) 1pc
3. The metal case of the future lamp.
4. Wiring, soldering iron, hand tools and fasteners.th lamp.
Can be used to make the body of an old lamp
Or use a special aluminum profile with glass. In this case, the driver is installed inside the profile.
We install diode lines 4 pcs.
We make a ceiling mount (on cables) + put frosted glass.
Version of the LED lamp in the housing (from fluorescent 2x36W)
with glass
Or you can put everything in an office lamp 600x600 mm.
Well, as a bonus, consider a few examples of decorative lamps based on LEDs.
For a decorative lamp we need:
- 4 wooden planks of the same size;
- drill with a drill 15 mm;
- glue for wood;
- wood stain;
- a brush with a pencil;
- sandpaper;
- LED candles.
First of all, it is necessary to make several holes in each plank with a drill, having previously made markings with a pencil - this is how we get a kind of pattern from circles.
We put stain on the tree.
Using glue, we connect 4 planks into a lamp.
We pass sandpaper over the lamp to give it a vintage look.
We put LED candles inside the lamp.
The nightlight is ready.
9. Lamp in oriental style.
As ceiling lamps for lamps, we use cans of pva glue.
We will need:
- 2-3 cans of PVA glue
- cartridges, wire
- scissors, sharp knife
- hot glue gun
- bamboo placemats or straw ceiling tiles
First you need to cut the napkins into pieces of the desired size.
On the base of the can, circle the cartridge with a 1 watt LED with a marker and cut a circle with a knife.
Then, using a hot glue gun, glue the napkins to the jars.
We glue the braid to the empty places.
At this stage, you can already see how it will glow.
It remains to decorate the braid with wooden beads at the joints.
For safety reasons, holes must be drilled for ventilation. Maybe more, they still won't be visible.
That's all, the lamp is ready.
10. Unusual decorative lamp.
Making a lamp with your own hands began with drawing preliminary sketches on paper. There was a desire that the lamp not only be curved in a plane, but also in space, and have a bizarre 3d wave shape.
After the sketch on paper is ready, we proceed to the manufacture of the lamp. Each pipe in the figure was measured and the pipes were cut to those dimensions. To get the necessary angles, templates were cut out of paper and fastened with tape on the pipe.
All tubes have been laid out on the table and adjustments have been made to the waveform.
The cuts were made on a stationary circular saw. Thus, smooth cuts without burrs with a width of 2 mm are obtained.
Now you need to connect all the pipes into one. The main task is to make smooth bends, for this it does not hurt to apply a template (fiberboard sheet) on the table.
Since the pipes are cardboard, they can be connected accordingly with PVA glue, but I would recommend using adhesives that are stronger and harden faster (moment, superglue).
On the reverse side, wooden planks were screwed onto the screws so that the homemade lamp could be hung on the wall. And holes were drilled in each pipe for the output of wires from the LED strips.
The pipes were painted with ordinary paint in a spray can. Red was used, since the wall on which the lamp should be located was white, I wanted to get some contrast.
The paint dries very quickly, so you can proceed with the installation of LEDs. The main thing to remember is that you can cut the LED strip only in specially marked places. The tape must be marked in advance so that it is enough for all 12 pipes.
We solder red wires to the “+” contact, and black wires to the “-” contact, so as not to confuse the polarity later.
We place the LED strips inside the pipes and fix them with the adhesive side to the pipe wall, and we bring the wires out through the holes made in advance. It remains only to connect all the wires in parallel (connect red to red, and black to black) and connect to the power supply.
Now it's time to hang the homemade lamp on the wall.
The lamp is ready.
A 220 volt LED lamp saves 1.5-2 times more electricity than a fluorescent lamp, and 10 times more than an incandescent lamp. In addition, when assembling from a burnt-out lamp, the cost of manufacturing such a lamp will be much lower. A do-it-yourself LED lamp is assembled quite simply, although you can only work with high voltage if you have the appropriate qualifications.
Advantages of a homemade lamp
In the store you can find many types of lamps. Each type has its own disadvantage and advantage. Incandescent lamps are gradually losing ground due to high energy consumption, low light output, despite a high color rendering index. Compared to them, fluorescent light sources are a real miracle. Energy-saving lamps - their more modern modernization, which made it possible to use the advantages of fluorescent light in the most common lamps, with E27 socles, devoid of the unpleasant flicker of the old representatives of this family.
But fluorescent lamps also have disadvantages. They quickly fail due to frequent switching on and off, moreover, the vapors contained in the tubes are poisonous, and the design itself requires special disposal. Compared to them, the light-emitting diode (LED) lamp is the second revolution in lighting. They are even more economical, do not require special disposal and last 5-10 times longer.
LED lamps have one, but a significant drawback - they are the most expensive. To reduce this minus to a minimum or turn it into a plus, you will need to build it from an LED strip with your own hands. At the same time, the cost of the light source becomes lower than that of luminescent counterparts.
Homemade LED lamp has several advantages:
- the service life of the device with proper assembly is a record 100,000 hours;
- in terms of watt / lumen efficiency, they also surpass all analogues;
- the cost of a homemade lamp is not higher than that of a fluorescent lamp.
Of course, there is one drawback - the lack of guarantees for the product, which must be compensated by the exact observance of instructions and the skill of an electrician.
Assembly materials
There are a lot of ways to create a lamp with your own hands. The most common methods are using an old base from a burnt out fluorescent lamp. Everyone in the house will find such a resource, so there will be no problems with the search. In addition, you will need:
- Base from a burnt product.
- Directly LED. They are sold as LED strips or individual HK6 LEDs. Each element has a current strength of approximately 100–120 mA and a voltage of approximately 3–3.3 Volts.
- You will need a diode bridge or 1N4007 rectifier diodes.
- You need a fuse, which can be found in the base of a blown lamp.
- Capacitor. Its capacity, voltage and other parameters are selected depending on the electrical circuit for the assembly and the number of LEDs in it.
- In most cases, you will need a frame on which the LEDs will be attached. The frame can be made of plastic or similar material. The main requirement is that it should not be metallic, conductive and should be heat resistant.
- To securely attach the LEDs to the frame, you will need superglue or liquid nails (the latter is preferable).
One or two elements from the above list may not be useful in some schemes, in other cases, on the contrary, new chain links (drivers, electrolytes) may be added. Therefore, the list of necessary materials must be compiled in each case individually.
We collect a lamp from an LED strip
We will analyze step by step the creation of a 220 V light source from an LED strip. To decide to use the innovation in the kitchen, it is enough to remember that self-assembled LED lamps are significantly more profitable than fluorescent counterparts. They live 10 times longer and consume 2-3 times less energy at the same light level.
- For construction, you will need two burned-out fluorescent lamps half a meter long and 13 watts. There is no point in buying new ones, it is better to find old and non-working ones, but not broken and without cracks.
- Next, we go to the store and buy an LED strip. The choice is large, so approach the purchase responsibly. It is advisable to buy tapes with pure white or natural light, it does not change the shades of surrounding objects. In such tapes, LEDs are assembled in groups of 3 pieces. The voltage of one group is 12 volts, and the power is 14 watts per meter tape.
- Then you need to disassemble the fluorescent lamps into their component parts. Carefully! Do not damage the wires, and do not break the tube, otherwise the toxic fumes will escape and you will have to clean up, as after a broken mercury thermometer. Do not throw away the extracted insides, they will come in handy in the future.
Below is a diagram of the LED strip we bought. In it, LEDs are connected in parallel, 3 pieces in a group. Please note that this scheme does not suit us. - Therefore, you need to cut the tape into sections of 3 diodes each and get expensive and useless converters. It is more convenient to cut the tape with wire cutters or large and strong scissors. After soldering the wires, the diagram below should be obtained.
The result should be 66 LEDs or 22 groups of 3 LEDs each, connected in parallel along the entire length. The calculations are simple. Since we need to convert alternating current to direct current, the standard voltage of 220 volts in the electrical network must be increased to 250. The need to "throw" the voltage is associated with the rectification process. - To find out the number of sections of LEDs, you need to divide 250 Volts by 12 Volts (voltage for one group of 3 pieces). As a result, we get 20.8 (3), rounding up, we get 21 groups. Here it is desirable to add another group, since the total number of LEDs will have to be divided into 2 lamps, and this requires an even number. In addition, by adding another section, we will make the overall scheme safer.
- We will need a DC rectifier, which is why you can not throw away the removed insides of a fluorescent lamp. To do this, we take out the converter, with the help of wire cutters we remove the capacitor from the common circuit. It is quite simple to do this, since it is located separately from the diodes, it is enough to break off the board.
The diagram shows what should happen in the end, in more detail. - Next, using soldering and superglue, you need to assemble the entire structure. Don't even try to fit all 22 sections into one fixture. It was said above that you need to specifically find 2 half-meter lamps, since it is simply impossible to place all the LEDs in one. Also, you do not need to rely on a self-adhesive layer on the back of the tape. It will not last long, so the LEDs need to be fixed with superglue or liquid nails.
Let's summarize and find out the advantages of the assembled product:
- The amount of light from the resulting LED lamps is 1.5 times greater than that of fluorescent counterparts.
- The power consumption is much less than that of fluorescent lamps.
- The assembled light source will serve 5–10 times longer.
- Finally, the last advantage is the directivity of the light. It does not scatter and is directed strictly downwards, thanks to which it is used at the desktop or in the kitchen.
Of course, the emitted light is not very bright, but the main advantage is the low power consumption of the lamp. Even if you turn it on and never turn it off, it will consume only 4 kW of energy in a year. At the same time, the cost of electricity consumed per year is comparable to the cost of a ticket in a city bus. Therefore, it is especially effective to use such light sources where constant illumination is required (corridor, street, utility room).
We collect a simple light bulb from LEDs
Let's take a look at another way to create an LED lamp. A chandelier or table lamp needs a standard E14 or E27 base. Accordingly, the circuit and the diodes used will be different. Compact fluorescent lamps are now widely used. We need one burned out cartridge, we will also change the general list of materials for assembly.
You will need:
- burnt base E27;
- RLD2-1 driver;
- NK6 LEDs;
- a piece of cardboard, but plastic is better;
- Super glue;
- electrical wiring;
- as well as scissors, soldering iron, pliers and other tools.
Let's start creating a homemade lamp:
The luminous flux of the assembled lamp is 100–120 lumens. Pure white light makes the bulb appear significantly brighter. This is enough to illuminate a small room (corridor, utility room). The main advantage of the LED light source is low power consumption and power - only 3 watts. Which is 10 times less than incandescent lamps and 2-3 times less than fluorescent ones. It works from a conventional cartridge powered by 220 volts.
Conclusion
So, having idle linear or compact fluorescent lamps and a few elements listed above in this article at hand, you can create an LED lamp with a number of advantages with your own hands. One of the main ones is low cost compared to lamps that can be purchased at the store. During assembly and installation, safety measures are required, since you have to work with high voltage, so you should follow the installation sequence according to the diagram. As a result, you get a lamp that will work for a long time and please the eye.
Video
Example of a luminaire installed in the ceiling
- Introduction
- Benefits of LED Downlight
- The connection diagram of the rulers and the power supply
- Brief lamp assembly algorithm
- List of components for the manufacture of the lamp
- Other replacements chani
- Measurement results of the finished luminaire
1. Introduction
This article provides an example of the manufacture of an Armstrong type LED lamp from a kit for the production of MELT ECO 25 lamps. Kit includes:
- LED rulersMT-L456A16N-80M40-24301-11 - 3 pcs.
- current source MT-IES4-0720032-1K - 1 pc.
- plastic racks for mounting rulers - 15 pcs.
The article contains photos of installing the kit in a new TechnoLux case TLC418CL (body TechnoLux TLC418CL sold separately). It is also possible to retrofit existing luminaires with fluorescent lamps into energy-saving LED luminaires. To do this, all the old components installed in such a luminaire must be dismantled.
To power the rulers in the lamp, a current source MT-IES4-0720032-1K that is not galvanically separated from the 220 volt power supply is used, therefore, the electrical safety of the lamp must be ensured by the design of the lamp. To fix the LED strips to the luminaire body, plastic racks with a mounting height of 10 mm are used. 15 racks (5 pieces per line) are included in the assembly kit. Plastic racks serve to ensure the electrical safety of the luminaire and ease of installation. The poles are attached to the luminaire body by means of latches, which makes it easy to install the poles into the body. LED strips are also held on the racks thanks to latches, which makes it easy to dismantle the strips if necessary.
Attention! Due to electrical safety requirements, the use of metal racks for attaching rulers to the metal body of the luminaire is prohibited.
The power supply is attached to the body of the lamp with double-sided tape 3 M VHB 5952, which ensures ease of installation and reliable fastening throughout the life of the luminaire.
For the electrical connection of the rulers between themselves and the power supply, a single-core copper wire in insulation with a cross section of 0.2-0.75 mm is used.
2. Benefits of LED Downlight
The main differences between this lamp and conventional fluorescent lamps:
- Long service life (more than 50,000 hours or 20-30 years when working 5-7 hours a day), no need to replace LEDs and maintain the luminaire
- Environmental safety, traumatic safety, lack of special disposal conditions
- High vibration resistance (no filament)
- High color rendering index ( Color Rendering Index - CRI)
- Instant ignition
- Service life does not depend on the number of on-off
- Energy savings, high efficiency, savings on wire cross-section (due to lower current consumption), no overloads in the network when turned on
- Low weight
- Resistance to mains voltage fluctuations
3. The connection diagram of the rulers and the current source
Picture 1.
4. Brief lamp assembly algorithm
If the luminaire body already has the necessary holes for installing the racks, then start assembling from point 4.
5. List of components for the manufacture of the lamp
- Kit for assembling the lamp "MELT Eco 25" (power source MT-IES4-0720032-1K, LED stripsMT-L456A16N-80M40-24301-11, plastic racks for mounting rulers)
- Luminaire body TechnoLux TLC418CL (framed glass diffuser included)
- The wire for connecting the rulers to each other and the power supply is a single-core insulated wire with a cross section of 0.2-0.75 mm 2
- Double sided tape 3 M VHB 5952 for mounting the power supply
6. Other remarks
To connect a wire to a connector WAGO , the wire must be stripped of insulation by 6-7 mm and simply inserted into the connector hole.
To disconnect wires from connectors WAGO , you need to press the button on the top of the connector with some thin tool and remove the wire.
7. Measurement results of the finished luminaire
After making the fixtures, we took measurements:
Lamp |
3 lines |
4 rulers * |
5 rulers * |
fluorescent |
Power consumption |
25W |
35W |
42W |
75W |
illumination |
234lx |
333lx |
420lx |
227lx |
Measurements show that a luminaire with 3 LED strips consumes 3 times less electricity than a fluorescent luminaire, and at the same time produces the same illumination.
In addition to saving electricity, the luminaire saves money on maintenance:
- no need to periodically buy new lamps
- no need to climb a ladder to change lamps, no need to stop production while changing lamps (if the luminaires are installed in the production premises).
- no need to dispose of old lamps
You can find the range of LED arrays and LED arrays, which includes arrays of different power, color temperature and other parameters, in the LED array arrays section:
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Last updated (19:09:2014)
An LED is a semiconductor device that converts electrical current into light. One 220 volt LED lamp saves a huge amount of electricity. Savings come out 2 times more than a fluorescent lamp and 10 times than an incandescent lamp. If you use parts from a burned-out lamp to make such a lamp, you can significantly reduce costs. Do-it-yourself LED lamp can be assembled quite simply. But do not forget that for this you must have the appropriate qualifications, as you will have to work with high voltage.
Benefits of LEDs
Nowadays, you can find a huge number of types of chandeliers with LED lamps in stores. They have different advantages and disadvantages. Modernization of energy saving lamps allows you to take advantage of all the benefits of fluorescent light. This applies to the most common fixtures with an E 27 base. And the old representatives of this family were endowed with an unpleasant flicker. Fluorescent light sources are truly a miracle. Compared to them, incandescent lamps are losing ground very much. Their high power consumption and low light output are not offset by their high color rendering index.
Durability is their main advantage. It is mechanically strong and reliable.. It is known that its life can reach up to 100,000 hours. And they are also considered environmentally friendly light sources, unlike fluorescent lamps, which, in turn, contain mercury. But as you know, fluorescent lamps have some disadvantages:
- The vapors contained in the tubes are quite poisonous.
- Due to frequent switching on and off, they can quickly fail.
- The design itself requires a certain amount of recycling.
The LED lamp can be considered the second revolution in the field of lighting. It works 5-10 times longer, is more economical and does not require any special disposal. Although there is a minor drawback - it is much more expensive.
In order to remove this small minus and turn it into a good plus, you can build a lamp from an LED strip with your own hands. In this way, the cost of the light source can be reduced. It will be much lower than that of luminescent counterparts . Also, this lamp will have several advantages:
- Lamp life will be a record 100,000 hours, but only if properly assembled.
- The cost of a homemade device is no higher than that of a fluorescent lamp.
- The watt/lumen efficiency is far superior to all analogues.
But there is also one drawback - this product does not have a warranty. It must be compensated by the skill of the electrician and the exact observance of the instructions.
Homemade lamps
To create a lamp with your own hands, there are a huge number of ways. Using an old base from a burned-out fluorescent lamp is the most common method. Such resources are available in every home, so there will be no problems finding them. And you will also need:
In some schemes, one or two items from this list may not be useful. However, in others, on the contrary, new links in the chain may be needed, for example: drivers or electrolytes. In each specific case, you need make a list of required materials.
How to make a DIY LED lamp
To proceed with the installation of the lamp, it is necessary to prepare two damaged fluorescent lamps with a power of 13 W and a length of half a meter. There is no point in buying new ones, it is best to find broken old ones. But they must be checked for cracks and chips.
Next, in the store you need to purchase an LED strip. This must be approached responsibly, as the choice is very large. Ribbons with natural or pure white light work best. Since they do not change the shades of surrounding objects and are super-bright. Usually in these tapes the LEDs are assembled in groups of three. The power of one group is 14 watts, and the voltage is 12 volts per meter tape.
After that, you need to disassemble the fluorescent lamps into their component parts. It is necessary to act very carefully - do not damage the wires and do not break the tube, as in this case toxic fumes will escape. All extracted entrails should not be thrown away. They may come in handy later. Next, you need to cut the tape into sections of 3 diodes. After that, it is worth getting expensive and unnecessary converters. Large, sturdy scissors or wire cutters are best for cutting the tape.
As a result, there should be 22 groups 3 leds or 66 leds, which must be connected in parallel along the entire length. To convert alternating current to direct current, it is necessary to increase the standard voltage of 220 volts to 250 in the electrical network. This is due to the straightening process. The next step is to figure out the number of LED sections. To do this, you need to divide 250 volts by 12 volts (voltage for 1 group of 3 pcs.). Having received as a result 20.8 (3), you need to round up - you get 21 groups. It is best to add another group, as the total number of LEDs will be divided into two lamps. And dividing an even number is much easier.
Next, you need a DC rectifier, which can be found in the extracted insides of a fluorescent lamp. Using wire cutters, we remove the capacitor from the common converter circuit. It is quite easy to perform this action, since it is separate from the diodes, you just have to break off the board.
Using superglue and soldering, it is necessary to assemble the entire structure. You should not try to fit all 22 sections into one lamp. As mentioned above, you need to find 2 half-meter lamps, since it is simply impossible to place all the LEDs in one. You do not need to rely on the self-adhesive layer, which is located on the back of the tape. He won't be able to last long. Therefore, to fix the LEDs, it is better to use superglue or liquid nails.
Summing up, you can make out all the advantages of the assembled product. The amount of light from the resulting lamps is 1.5 times greater than that of analogues. But the power consumption is much less than that of fluorescent lamps. The service life of this light source will be about 10 times longer. And also one of the advantages - is the direction of the light. It is directed strictly downward and does not have the ability to dissipate. Therefore, it will be best used at the desktop or in the kitchen. However, the emitted light is not high brightness, but has low power consumption.
Constant use of the lamp in the on state will consume only 4 kW of energy per year. The cost of electricity consumed per year can be compared with the cost of a ticket in public transport. Therefore, such light sources are often used where constant illumination is required, for example:
- Street.
- Corridor.
- Utility room.
- Emergency lighting.
Simple LED light bulb
There is another way to create a lamp. A table lamp, chandelier or lantern needs an E14 or E27 socket. Accordingly, the diodes used and the circuit will be different. Compact fluorescent lamps are now common . For installation you will need one burned out cartridge, as well as a modified list of materials. Necessary:
Let's move on to creating an LED module with our own hands. First you need to disassemble the old lamp. In fluorescent lamps, the base is attached to a plate with tubes and secured with latches. The plinth can be detached quite simply. It is necessary, having found places with latches, pry them with a screwdriver. You need to do everything quite carefully so as not to damage the tubes. When opening, it is necessary to ensure that the electrical wiring that leads to the base remains intact.
From the upper part with gas discharge tubes, you need to make a plate to which the LEDs will be attached. To do this, disconnect the bulb tubes. The rest of the plate has 6 holes. In order for the LEDs to fit tightly in it, you need to make a cardboard or plastic “bottom” that will also isolate the LEDs. You need to use NK6 LEDs, they are multi-chip (6 crystals per diode) with parallel connection.
Because of this, the light source is ultra-bright at minimum power. In the cover you need to make 2 holes for each LED. Holes should be pierced carefully and evenly so that their location matches each other and the intended pattern. If you use a piece of plastic as a “bottom”, then the LEDs will be fixed firmly. But in the case of using a piece of cardboard, you will need to glue the base with LEDs using superglue or liquid nails.
Since the light bulb will be used on a 220 volt network, an RLD2-1 driver is required. You can connect 3 diodes of 1 watt to it. For this lamp, it took 6 LEDs with a power of 0.5 watts. From this it follows that the connection circuit will be formed from two parts connected in series from three LEDs connected in parallel.
Before proceeding with the assembly, you need to isolate the driver and the board from each other. To do this, you can use a piece of cardboard or plastic. This will avoid a short circuit in the future. There is no need to worry about overheating, as the lamp does not heat up at all. It remains to assemble the design and test it in action. The white light makes the bulb appear much brighter. The luminous flux of the assembled lamp is 100-120 lumens. This may be enough to illuminate a small room (corridor or utility room).
Types of fixtures
Lamps on LEDs can be divided into two groups: indicator (LED) - are used as indicators, because they are low-power and dim. The green lights on the router are indicator LEDs. Such diodes are also on the TV. Their application is quite varied. For example:
- Car dashboard lighting.
- Various electronic devices.
- Illumination of computer displays.
Their colors have a huge variety: yellow, green, red, purple, blue, white and even ultraviolet. It is worth remembering that the color of the LED does not depend on the color of the plastic. It is determined by the type of semiconductor material from which it is made. In most cases, you need to turn it on to know the color, as they are made of colorless plastic.
A lighting design is used to illuminate something. It differs in its power and brightness. It also has a very reduced price, so it is often used in domestic and industrial lighting. This type of lighting is considered productive, environmentally friendly and cheap. To date, the level of development of technology can allow the production of lamps with a high level of light output per 1 watt.
Now one of the most popular and fashionable lighting solutions are linear LED lamps. In this article, we will understand how modern LED lighting systems are arranged and assemble one lamp with our own hands.
Design
Linear luminaire includes: aluminum LED profile with polycarbonate diffused glass, light source (LED strip or LED bar), LED driver. Also, a huge variety of accessories are offered for profiles (suspensions, plugs, fasteners, etc.)Of the advantages of such a simple design, one can note the wide possibilities of configuration and choice. Almost every such lamp is unique. The undeniable advantage of linear lighting systems is that we can make lamps of any length.
Varieties
Linear lamps are: recessed, suspended, overhead. They differ in the method of installation, which is provided by the manufacturer.Let's get started
Enclosure selection
We decided to assemble a pendant lamp that will find its application both in the garage and in the office. Among the wide range of aluminum LED profiles, we have found the right one. Our choice was on a profile called U-S35. The dimensions of this profile are 35*35*2500mm.
Selecting a Light Source
Having studied the market of LED strips, looking at reviews and reading reviews, we wanted to apply a novelty in our future lamp.
Japanese LED module HOKASU. The module has a huge advantage over the LED strip.
The worst enemy of LEDs is heat. From the temperature emitted by powerful LEDs, LEDs degrade, lose percentages of their original brightness. The instantaneous removal of point heat, which is concentrated at the very base of the crystal, is very important. Since the LED strip is a flexible conductor with smd LEDs, when they are mounted on a cooling surface, we get a thermal gap. The tape is not very tightly glued to the surface, glue (double 3M adhesive tape) prevents instant heat removal. The rulers do not have this drawback, because the board is soldered to the aluminum strip at the factory, which in turn is already attached to the surface.
So, the characteristics of the studio:
- Supply voltage, V: 24
- Luminous flux, lm / m: 2700
- Power, W/m: 26
- LED Size: 2835 (2.8x3.5mm)
- Color temperature, K: 4000
Equipment
From the materials we used
- Aluminum profile
- End caps + hangers + surface mounting brackets
- LED modules
- Power supply 24v 150w
For assembly we need
- soldering iron
- multimeter
- Wire cutting and stripping pliers
- Flux, tin
- Straight arms
Assembly
To begin with, we will try on the rulers in the profile and cut them to the size we need.By the way, they can be cut every 4 cm.
After we cut the ruler, it is advisable to check it for resistance, because after the first attempt, when I cut with a regular saw, the ruler closed from the very edge.
This is due to the fact that the base is made of aluminum and conducts current. And with an inaccurate cut from the end, the copper tracks touch the substrate.
Now our lamp is almost ready, it remains for us to solder all the rulers together. According to the manufacturer: a serial connection up to 3m is acceptable. (We will check this later by measuring the total power of the finished linear luminaire.)
Solder the wire at one end and close the screen. (For the wire, you need to make a hole and bring it out of the profile, but we will not do this yet.)
I connected the lamp to a laboratory power supply in order to see how much current the LEDs consume. A fairly common problem is that when connecting powerful tapes over 2m, there is a loss of power. This is due to insufficient conductivity of the copper tracks. It turned out that the total power of the lamp is 2.7 * 24 = 64.8W (26 W / m).
The readings fluctuated with temperature, but averaged 26 W/m. Considering that the declared power of one module is 26W, I think this is an ideal indicator.
Applicability
For clarity, I hung the lamp over the desktop and took a few photos. In the future I will find him a permanent place.Price
Linear lamp 65W, 2.5m.- Profile U-S35: 2400r
- Modules HOKASU: 2370
- Accessories: ~300r
- Power supply: 1150r
One such lamp is enough for 2 or even 3 jobs. It can be cut in half and placed over different tables by connecting it to the same power source.